Wool always seems more malleable than any man made fibre fabric, so I'd always choose more pleats, with the individual shaping being less when making anything not wool. The Book is written with the assumption of using wool fabric.
I work more from the amount of cloth I have and the size of the set and how it falls on the apron when working out how to pleat - you can lose quite a bit if the placing falls just slightly wrong for your first thoughts. Sometimes the set just will not fit and almost one repeat is lost getting it to look right, but that is what it takes to satisfy my way of working.
If you are still feeling your way with kilt construction, maybe tack or pin your fabric so you can see feel or even try on different options before making a final decision.
Anne the Pleater
Last edited by Pleater; 31st May 22 at 06:09 AM.
I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.
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