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sew fell up or down
I just got one of the MacKenzie economies from Stillwater and like a dummy took the basting out (after assuring a good fit at the waist) and then realized (remembered) that SWK economies don't have the fell sewn. So I figger that I'll sew it myself just for the slightly better fit that it affords...
...so...if I pin the pleats should i sew down form the waist band or up from the point at which the fell begins? Also, if I try to do this by machine will that make any difference as to whether up or down...I've seen posts about a machine having a certain amount of slippage but I figger that the machine stitches will probably be tightr than what I can do by hand.
Thanks...
Best
AA
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I believe you sew up, to ensure the bottom starts at the same place in the sett all along it. Becasue wool stretches, you could differentially pull it on different pleats and end up with it all williwaud. (that's a technical term among sporran makers)
Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)
Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.
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![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by turpin
williwaud. (that's a technical term among sporran makers)
Poppycock! No such word!
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MacKenzie from SWK? WHen did those come available?
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If you use curved pins, other wise I'd baste it. Start from the bottom, and holding the material in front and behind the foot you are going to pull the material tight/snug as it travels under the presser foot, other wise you will get a little pucker in the top material when you get to the top, ( no matter how well you pin/baste). It's abit tricky at first so warm up on some scrap first. Good luck! And if all else fails int:
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If you are not careful you'll mess up the fit. I've tried this twice and had to rip out all the stitches until I wised up. Have someone pin the pleats down at the bottom of the fell while you are wearing said kilt. Otherwise it will never hang right. Since there is so little taper in it already if you just pin it while it's lying on the tabe you'll end up with a stove pipe, and the aprons will pull mightily when you put it on.
Kilted Teacher and Wilderness Ranger and proud member of Clan Donald, USA
Happy patron of Jack of the Wood Celtic Pub and Highland Brewery in beautiful, walkable, and very kilt-friendly Asheville, NC.
New home of Sierra Nevada AND New Belgium breweries!
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OK, as Barb says: sew from the fell up, stretch the material to taper the pleat from the fell pleat width to the waist pleat width. You do know what the hip and waist measurement you are tayloring the kilt to? It may not be as easy as just sewing the pleats.
Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine.
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Southern Tawk!
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13th May 07, 06:28 AM
#10
etymology of williwaud?
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by ccga3359
Poppycock! No such word! ![Rolling Eyes](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Mmm, actually I think it's a participle, describing one of two conditions
(a) sewing a seam in a watercraft which is struck by a williwaw;
(b) attempting to sew a pleat after one to many gude-willie-waughts!
( )
![Quote](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Beuth Sim
It's a SOUTHERN word! ... If the English language can be mangled, I garontee {a Louisiana word} we goin' ta do it! ![Wink](http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
I agree about the mangling part, but be cautious with the 'Cadien---our friends might lay some Quebecois on us, resulting in mutual incomprehension.
Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
gainfully unemployed systems programmer
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