Recognizing a Good Tweed Jacket?

[IRISH]

can any knowledgable tweed jacket owners express some methods of discerning quality when buying a tweed jacket?

presumably, this would applicable both when paying good money for a new jacket from a name retailer as well as finding a good buy in a second hand shop. useful information from those with experience would be appreciated.

thanks in advance of your suggestions.

[McMurdo]

I've got a few Tweed Jackets now, I'd say take a close look at it, inspect it and if there is little to no wear and it fits then go for it. I've also found that if it says Harris Tweed on the label then you have a good buy.

[Howard Clark]

Yes, look for a 100% wool label or better yet "Genuine Harris Tweed" with the orb label means it will be first class materials at the least, and the workmanship almost always good as well. Get to the second hand shops like Goodwill and Salvation Army. There are usually several tweed jackets, at least around here. Harris Tweed was very popular here in the states during the 1970's and 80's. They are simple to spot once you have educated your eye. Good luck in the hunt.

Italian fabric and designers seem to dominate the suit market now.

[The Wizard of BC]

The differences in a OK Jacket, a good Jacket and a truly awesome Jacket are not readily apparent to the first time Jacket buyer without some knowledge of how Jackets are made.
The two most tailored and complex garments a man can buy are his Kilt and his Jacket. Both have internal interfacings and strengtheners built into them that you can't see just by looking at them. But if they are not there the garment will begin to sag and stretch from wearing it. This can begin to happen as soon as the first wearing in some garments. It also becomes very evident after the first cleaning.
If you are thinking of buying a new Jacket here are some questions you may ask of the seller or maker to tell the difference in the quality and the construction.

1- Does the Jacket maker use floating hair canvas interfacings or do they use fusable interfacings?
If you are only going to wear the Jacket once or twice a year, and it will be stored flat for the rest of the time, a Jacket with fusable interfacings will serve fine. Almost all Jackets, massed produced today will use interfacings which are glued with heat to the inside of the outer fabric.
If you are going to wear the Jacket often then the added expense of floating interfacings is worth the price.

2- Does the Jacket maker use machine made button holes or hand-stitched button holes?
This is a small thing to most people and I'm sure you would think that a machine made button hole is perfectly good but a hand-stitched button hole will last years without stretching or distorting and will not fray.

3- Does the Jacket maker use removable buttons?
When you send your Jacket to the cleaners the buttons, especially if they are silver or real Horn should be removed from the Jacket to avoid damage not only to the button but to the jacket itself from the extreme pressure of the pressing.

4- There are Tweeds, and there are Tweeds. I am not a fan of the "Harris" branded Tweed. (But that is a personal, not a quality thing) Harris Tweed weavers are a group of hand weavers and small weaving companies set up to preserve the small weaving companies. It is not one large company producing all the fabric to the same standards and quality. The brand "Harris" means it was produced on the outer islands of Scotland by a small independent company. So there are variations.
The cost, per yard, difference between a good quality fabric and a so-so fabric means the difference in the finished Jacket is only $20 or $30. So always go with the highest quality fabric.

If you are looking at a used Jacket here are some things to look for.

First - Hold the Jacket up to a good light and look for small, pinprick holes which are evidence of moths.

Second - Look inside the Jacket at the armholes. If you see fraying of the liner pass it by.

Third - Look at the seam in the back of the Jacket between the shoulder blades. Does the stitching show stretching?

Fourth - Is the Jacket fully lined? That means all the way down the sleeves and the entire inside of the body. Then look at the bottom of the lining. Is it sort of loose and folded over? and is it hand stitched. If the Jacket liner is machine stitched then it is almost always made with fusable interfacings.

Finally - Take the Jacket near the lapels and just above the chest pocket and skrunch it and ball it up in your hands and then stick you nose in it and smell. It there is a smokey smell, a mild musty smell, or an oily smell the jacket may only require a cleaning. But if you smell yeast, or a baking bread smell, then pass it by as the fabric is rotting inside and as soon as you try to clean it the Jacket will start to fall apart.

Notice I have not mentoned anything about style of Jacket. Styles change over the years and what we today think of as an Argyle or Braemar Jacket has not always been the same. Style of Jacket is completly up to the wearer. I personally prefer older styles of Jackets. But that's becase I don't like to look cookie cutter, just like everyone else.
But one style feature is and has always been the same in a well fitting Kilt Cut Jacket and that is side vents. In the back of the Jacket you will find two small loose "cuts" near the side seams with a flat panel across the butt. Avoid a Jacket with a single vent at the center of the back. It will gape open and look unsightly when worn with the Kilt.

I hope this helps.

I remain, as always, your faithful servant.

[Finn]

Wow, Steve. Great lesson! Thanks!

[IRISH]

thanks to all, especially the wizard for that last lecture.

[Howard Clark]

Yeah, Steve, that was great ! Thanks. I learned several things in that post.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Mr. Aston gets a Gold Star and goes to sartorial heaven.

[Bugbear]

Don't forget that The Wizard of BC offers Scottish made kilt cut jackets custom made through Freedom Kilts. I think you could probably request any number of materiels for your jacket... Including pin wale corduroy.

[The Wizard of BC]

OH WOW! A Pink Death Prince Charlie with Silver Flamingo buttons.