First kilt, first question...the A-line flare

[Mainelydad]

I'm working from The Art of Kiltmaking page 56. My waist and hip are the same (40") so I've chalked a straight line from the waist to the fell. From the fell how far out do I flare? Is there a way to know how much? Looks like the minimum amount would be 1 1/2".

[Pleater]

Your measurements might be the same, but I'd put down money that you are not tubular.
You will, for instance, still need to shape the pleats at the back to narrow the fell into the waist, and without a bit of flare the apron will appear to narrow at the bottom.

Just as the pleats should fall vertically from the widest part at the back, the aprons should fall smoothly - I ease the apron in an inch at the waist in order to get a hidden extra shaping. I match the pattern of the waistband, but sew the join of band and apron to the reinforcement easing it in a little. A light pressing finishes the shaping so it is invisible to anyone unable to take a tape measure to the finished item.

[Barb T]

If the waist and hip measurements across the apron are identical, you can't put any flare in the apron - it has to be a rectangle. Having said that, I would go back and re-do your measurements using the "towel method" as described in the following post: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...an-hips-90890/

The post describes why this is a useful thing to do, so I won't repeat it here. But, bottom line, if you measure this way, your kilt won't be a cylinder, and it will fit you properly. You'll also be able to put some taper in the pleats and some flare in the apron.

[Mainelydad]

Thank you for this information. I'll give the towel a try, although I really don't have much of a belly. My fitting issue is that I have what a tailor would call a "flat buttock". I'll let this advice simmer while I decide how the kilt will be pleated. My tartan is the "loud MacLeod".

[The Wizard of BC]

As a quick double-check of your measurements you can try a kiltmaker trick. Put on a pair of pants. Using the pants side seams as a guide, measure around the back of the hips from side seam to side seam.
Then take a similar measurement across the back of the waist at where you want the top straps to be. Again across the back from side seam to side seam.

You may find that your side-to-side hip measurement is larger than your side to-side waist measurement. This is your taper.