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  • 1st March 11, 12:19 AM
    figheadair
    Tartan of the Month - March
    Something a little different this month. What do you see: tartan, cut, style, date etc. Have a crack at reproducing the sett.

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Coat1-01a.jpg

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Coat1-03a.jpg
  • 1st March 11, 05:27 AM
    M. A. C. Newsome
    I've heard of a headless horseman, but a cyclist? :-)
  • 1st March 11, 06:10 AM
    ForresterModern
    At first glance the multitude of thin red stripes brought MacDonald to mind but this is not MacDonald standard sett. Looks asymmwtric with one red strip, then a tight red pair, then two more separate ones, then the repeat. And then there is that yellowish green trip thrown in.

    Obviously a coat of some sort, but a bit long for typical kilt wear, and the cyclist has on breeches of some sort anyway. Boneshaker cycle is straight out of the late 1800s, probably the end of the century with the sprung seat, from my knowledge of cycling gear.

    Tough to see much more on my little laptop screen. Will review again when I get home to my 23 inch where I can see better.
  • 1st March 11, 06:36 AM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ForresterModern View Post
    Obviously a coat of some sort, but a bit long for typical kilt wear, and the cyclist has on breeches of some sort anyway. Boneshaker cycle is straight out of the late 1800s, probably the end of the century with the sprung seat, from my knowledge of cycling gear.

    Although put together in this museum setting it would be wrong to 'assume' that the coat, trousers and cycle are contemporary.
  • 1st March 11, 10:03 AM
    xman
    The twill lines run the 'wrong' way (unless the image is mirrored), but as you mentioned a couple of months ago this is a modern idea.

    The colours are very rich which makes me think that the piece hasn't seen much action and/or isn't very old. I'm not familiar with the styles of various periods, but it looks like it might be 18th C. If it were made with some of the earliest aniline dyes that might explain its resilience as well, but that green isn't as bright as I might suspect from an aniline green. If it were mid 18th C. then the cultural preference might run toward the more muted greens of older dyes.
  • 1st March 11, 12:06 PM
    unaspenser
    I have no idea what the tartan is, but I love the colors, and the cut of that coat!

    Edit: I'd guess by the setting and the look of the cut that this coat is from around the turn of the 20th century, when bicycles of that style were in vogue.
  • 1st March 11, 12:14 PM
    davidlpope
    Assymetric sett? Regency period? Colors don't seem far off of Wilsons' red, blue, and green.
  • 1st March 11, 01:33 PM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by unaspenser View Post
    I have no idea what the tartan is, but I love the colors, and the cut of that coat!

    Edit: I'd guess by the setting and the look of the cut that this coat is from around the turn of the 20th century, when bicycles of that style were in vogue.

    See post #4
  • 1st March 11, 01:35 PM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by davidlpope View Post
    Assymetric sett? Regency period? Colors don't seem far off of Wilsons' red, blue, and green.

    It's a bit too early in the month to confirm/give clues and so I'll let others have a crack first.
  • 2nd March 11, 02:30 PM
    unaspenser
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by figheadair View Post
    See post #4

    How could I have missed that? *headdesk*
  • 5th March 11, 11:55 PM
    xman
    Anyone else?
  • 12th March 11, 12:58 AM
    figheadair
    No one else what to have a crack? No costume thoughts? No-one want to have a crack at the sett?
  • 12th March 11, 02:06 AM
    ForresterModern
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by figheadair View Post
    No one else what to have a crack? No costume thoughts? No-one want to have a crack at the sett?

    I did have a thought and your mention of costume brought me the courage to mention what I otherwise would not have bothered. Probably wrong, even in my own estimation, but I was watching the movie "Rob Roy" the other day after reviewing this thread and ,despite all the overlying apparatus worn by the character thought that I spied this tartan in the coat worn by the Argyll for the final swordfight scene. In the end I decided that the movie coat tartan was more red based than this one, and that I could not make out the cut of the coat from the overlying plaid, belts, etc... worn by the character. There, you baited it out of me, against my will and better judgement. But as you noticed this thread was languishing without recent comment otherwise.

    jeff
  • 12th March 11, 04:55 AM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ForresterModern View Post
    I did have a thought and your mention of costume brought me the courage to mention what I otherwise would not have bothered. Probably wrong, even in my own estimation, but I was watching the movie "Rob Roy" the other day after reviewing this thread and ,despite all the overlying apparatus worn by the character thought that I spied this tartan in the coat worn by the Argyll for the final swordfight scene. In the end I decided that the movie coat tartan was more red based than this one, and that I could not make out the cut of the coat from the overlying plaid, belts, etc... worn by the character. There, you baited it out of me, against my will and better judgement. But as you noticed this thread was languishing without recent comment otherwise.

    jeff

    I don't know what the jacket is, my picture it not detailed enough and I was not there when they made that up but do know that, as you observed, it's not the ToM for March.

    If no-one else wants to have a crack I might post details sooner than the end of the month.
  • 12th March 11, 05:01 AM
    Father Bill
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome View Post
    I've heard of a headless horseman, but a cyclist? :-)

    When our schoolboard was first going into cutbacks, I was a vice-principal. Walking with a colleague into a school for a meeting, there was a stepladder with a lad well up inside the suspended ceiling so that we could only see him from the waist down. Without thinking, I said to my colleague, "Look - cutbacks! Half an electrician."

    It didn't really go over all that well, but you bring back to mind the stuff that jumps out of our mouths at times. :oops:
  • 12th March 11, 06:59 AM
    theborderer
    I would say its a shirt, of no particular tartan. In the 50's we said Lumberjack shirt.
  • 14th March 11, 03:17 PM
    Morris at Heathfield
    I think the tartan looks familiar, but I can't place it. As for the style, it looks 19th century to me. That's about as definite as I can get.

    Is Matt Newsome allowed to give his input on this one?
  • 15th March 11, 10:43 AM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Morris at Heathfield View Post
    I think the tartan looks familiar, but I can't place it. As for the style, it looks 19th century to me. That's about as definite as I can get.

    Is Matt Newsome allowed to give his input on this one?

    Absolutely.
  • 15th March 11, 11:47 AM
    davidlpope
    Post Deleted
  • 15th March 11, 11:49 AM
    davidlpope
    Okay...looks like a Regency Era dressing gown, made up in an assymetric variant of the Skene tartan, fabric by WOB, made for a gentleman member of the Highland Society of London.:)

    How far off am I?

    David

    BTW, the Culloden fabric arrived yesterday and it is beautiful. Thanks for setting up the custom weave.
  • 15th March 11, 12:48 PM
    Jack Daw
    I'm at work and can't make a comparison, but the tartan reminds me of Cameron of Erracht. (I have an excuse for being way off - I'm color blind)
  • 15th March 11, 01:05 PM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by davidlpope View Post
    Okay...looks like a Regency Era dressing gown, made up in an assymetric variant of the Skene tartan, fabric by WOB, made for a gentleman member of the Highland Society of London.:)

    How far off am I?

    Some way off yet

    • Regency Era – there or there abouts.
    • dressing gown - no
    • made up in an asymmetric – yes
    • variant of the Skene tartan – no
    • fabric by WOB - no
    • made for a gentleman member of the Highland Society of London - no


    Quote:

    BTW, the Culloden fabric arrived yesterday and it is beautiful. Thanks for setting up the custom weave.
    I’m delighted that you’re pleased.
  • 17th March 11, 11:55 PM
    Morris at Heathfield
    I finally remember what tartan it reminds me of: Shaw of Tordarroch (the green one).

    EDIT: Of course, that's unlikely, as the Shaw of Tordarroch tartans were designed in 1969.
  • 18th March 11, 12:20 PM
    figheadair
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Morris at Heathfield View Post
    I finally remember what tartan it reminds me of: Shaw of Tordarroch (the green one).

    EDIT: Of course, that's unlikely, as the Shaw of Tordarroch tartans were designed in 1969.

    I don't see the similarity: here's the ToM then the Shaw:

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...rtan/march.jpg

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...artan/shaw.jpg

    The ToM has clear overall similarities with the Clan Donald and that sett might have been the source but it's impossible to know for certain.The Shaw, Red and Htg, were based on the MacKintosh/MacBean tartans.
  • 18th March 11, 12:51 PM
    Cygnus
    At first I thought it was MacInroy, but checking it shows a number of differences as well as an obvious discrepancy in date.

    It's quite a nice towncoat, even if none of us amateurs can identify it!
  • 26th March 11, 03:27 AM
    figheadair
    Well it's nearly the end of the month and I think this one has run its course so here we go.

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Coat1-01a.jpg

    The coat is in the West Highland Museum, Fort William where it is described as having been made locally c1810. There are a number of labels in the museum that are incorrect and the cut of the coat, the collar and the rear pockets is of the Wm IV style so it is more likely to be c1830-35. It is in immaculate condition and can't have been worn much.

    The material on the other hand appears to be older. It's a rural handwoven coarse and naturally dyed cloth that could date anywhere between c1750-1820 so the claimed 1810 date could refer to the cloth rather than the jacket.

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Coat1-03a.jpg

    The dyes used are without doubt indigo and cochineal for the blue and red respectively plus some yellow, possibly a local plant dye, and indigo for the green.

    As I mentioned in an earlier post, the sett is asymmetric. It is made so by virtue of the red stripe separating the green and blue on one side of the blue ground.

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...rtan/march.jpg

    It has overtures of the Clan Donald sett but that's probably no more than coincidence. A pattern like this is likely to have been intended for clothing rather than plaiding that was used differently.

    Hopefully I will have an opportunity to examine the coat in more detail later this year and to look at the sewing, lining and perhaps be lucky enough to find a selvedge that might help determine more about the actual cloth.
  • 26th March 11, 04:23 AM
    Jock Scot
    Unusually for me, I did keep my mouth shut!:lol:
  • 26th March 11, 08:54 AM
    xman
    Thanks again, Peter. Very informative.
  • 28th March 11, 01:13 PM
    unaspenser
    Very interesting! It really is a lovely piece.

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