Kilt lining interfacing and lining.

[I M Kilted!]

... I think this belongs here, forgive me if I'm wrong.

Anyhow, I have made two kilts and I am going to make another one with 16oz tartan, so I want to make it a good one. My questions have to do with kilt finishing fabrics:

Both kilts that i have made are made with fusible interfacing. I have noticed that others are made with canvas, is there any difference in strength, comfort, asthetics:

1) What is more appropriate; Fusible Interfacing or Sew in Tailor's Canvas?

Thanks.

[Barb T]

You shouldn't ever use fusible interfacing with wool tartan. The interfacing needs to move with the kilt, and and the interfacing is put in in such a way in a trad kilt that it moves somewhat flexibly with the kilt. Definitely don't want fusible. Also, steaming and shaping the kilt is impossible if you've already welded interfacing to the fabric.

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Cheers,

Barb

[way2fractious]

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Yes, Barb, I should probably break down and get some real tailor's canvas. On some of my early creations I have used regular canvas or heavier, non-fusilble interfacing (double layer). But now is the time to upgrade.

[Angus]

I dont know if this has already been asked, but I'd really liked to know what the difference is if any between the real stuff and regular canvas.?????

[I M Kilted!]

You shouldn't ever use fusible interfacing with wool tartan. The interfacing needs to move with the kilt, and and the interfacing is put in in such a way in a trad kilt that it moves somewhat flexibly with the kilt. Definitely don't want fusible. Also, steaming and shaping the kilt is impossible if you've already welded interfacing to the fabric.

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Cheers,

Barb

I second that too, I would like to get some tailors canvas and perhaps some cotton drab to line the kilt. I would appreciate it if I could get a source...I live in Minneapolis, MN but an online source would be great.

Thanks.
PS: I am getting The Art of Kiltmaking for my birthday!

[Barb T]

Tailor's canvas is really different from regular canvas. It's commonly called hair canvas, because it's woven from cotton and/or wool, a synthetic fiber (viscose, acrylic, polyester), and hair (commonly horse or goat) to give it stiffness. It's a coarse, rather open weave, and kind of speckled from the interwoven hair. I've also used "hair canvas" that has thin synthetic filaments that help give the fabric stiffness instead of or in addition to hair.

Anyway, it's a different animal from cotton canvas. It's no longer possible to buy it at our local Joann Fabrics, so I've wound up ordering it on the Internet. It comes in all kinds of weights and blends of fibers and hair, and it's not easy to determine from the online descriptions what the "hand' will be. I just try to order the heaviest hair canvas I can find, and I double it if I wind up with something that's a bit too light weight.

Googling Tailor's Pride canvas will bring up several online dealers. That's the one I most commonly use. Here's one source:
http://www.baerfabrics.com/proddetai...292487009%2DYD
Cheers!
Barb

[I M Kilted!]

I also found Tailor's Canvas on google:

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ind...S&Category=485

1)Which would you reccomend?

Also, Broadcloth fabric for lining:

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ind...S&Category=445

2)Is this Broadcloth fabric suitable for lining?

[Barb T]

I wouldn't consider using anything but woven interfacing (the nonwoven stuff doesn't shape very well with steam, so I'd skip the Pellon). The Accro woven interfacing on this page has nothing about weight or composition. Tailoring canvas varies enormously in weight, and just because it says tailoring canvas doesn't mean that it's suitable for a kilt. I'd pick a site that at least tells you what's in the stuff and what the weight is. I'd aim for something that says "heavy weight".

Broadcloth is on the thin side for good kilt lining - feels flimsy and is pretty see-through. I'd aim for a good 100% cotton quilting fabric that's a bit on the heavier side. Twill sateen is also good and is more substantial yet.

Barb

[AtagahiKC]

Tailors Canvas is also available at Britex Fabric in San Francisco, CA (Union Square).

http://www.britexfabrics.com/

They don't have an online shop, but you might be able to order it by phone and have it shipped. However, this probably is not the cheapest source.

They also carry a lot of wool fabric from Scotland and England, including tartans, with the tartan name on the label. Some of the tartans were what I think Barb means by hard finish, but not all.

When I asked them about the weight of the fabric, they didn't have the information. I'm not an expert, but I think it was 10 or 11 oz weight fabric, so not suitable for a kilt.

But they had the most extensive range of wool fabric in a rainbow of colors that I'd ever seen. I will probably buy some for kilt jackets, assuming I learn how to make a kilt first.

Again, the price weren't as good as I've seen elsewhere. But when you want to see and feel the fabric, it can't be beat.

Barb: I think you need to come to San Francisco to investigate the source and provide guidance. :-)

[JohnH]

I had to use the only stuff I could find in Toronto for my first kilt as I had not read the appropriate threads that mentioned on-line sources. What I ended up with was described to me as Tailor's canvas, but it has a dense weave & it was like stitching armour plate. ( I ended up using needle-nose pliers & broke 3 needles before I was done.) They had 4 weights, so I picked the heaviest. (CDN$8 per metre.)

The colour should be cream. (Like the centre. Mixed light sources.)