Kilt lining interfacing and lining.

[I M Kilted!]

... I think this belongs here, forgive me if I'm wrong.

Anyhow, I have made two kilts and I am going to make another one with 16oz tartan, so I want to make it a good one. My questions have to do with kilt finishing fabrics:

Both kilts that i have made are made with fusible interfacing. I have noticed that others are made with canvas, is there any difference in strength, comfort, asthetics:

1) What is more appropriate; Fusible Interfacing or Sew in Tailor's Canvas?

Thanks.

[Barb T]

You shouldn't ever use fusible interfacing with wool tartan. The interfacing needs to move with the kilt, and and the interfacing is put in in such a way in a trad kilt that it moves somewhat flexibly with the kilt. Definitely don't want fusible. Also, steaming and shaping the kilt is impossible if you've already welded interfacing to the fabric.

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Cheers,

Barb

[way2fractious]

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Yes, Barb, I should probably break down and get some real tailor's canvas. On some of my early creations I have used regular canvas or heavier, non-fusilble interfacing (double layer). But now is the time to upgrade.

[Angus]

I dont know if this has already been asked, but I'd really liked to know what the difference is if any between the real stuff and regular canvas.?????

[I M Kilted!]

You shouldn't ever use fusible interfacing with wool tartan. The interfacing needs to move with the kilt, and and the interfacing is put in in such a way in a trad kilt that it moves somewhat flexibly with the kilt. Definitely don't want fusible. Also, steaming and shaping the kilt is impossible if you've already welded interfacing to the fabric.

Do you need a source of tailor's canvas?

Cheers,

Barb

I second that too, I would like to get some tailors canvas and perhaps some cotton drab to line the kilt. I would appreciate it if I could get a source...I live in Minneapolis, MN but an online source would be great.

Thanks.
PS: I am getting The Art of Kiltmaking for my birthday!

[Barb T]

Tailor's canvas is really different from regular canvas. It's commonly called hair canvas, because it's woven from cotton and/or wool, a synthetic fiber (viscose, acrylic, polyester), and hair (commonly horse or goat) to give it stiffness. It's a coarse, rather open weave, and kind of speckled from the interwoven hair. I've also used "hair canvas" that has thin synthetic filaments that help give the fabric stiffness instead of or in addition to hair.

Anyway, it's a different animal from cotton canvas. It's no longer possible to buy it at our local Joann Fabrics, so I've wound up ordering it on the Internet. It comes in all kinds of weights and blends of fibers and hair, and it's not easy to determine from the online descriptions what the "hand' will be. I just try to order the heaviest hair canvas I can find, and I double it if I wind up with something that's a bit too light weight.

Googling Tailor's Pride canvas will bring up several online dealers. That's the one I most commonly use. Here's one source:
http://www.baerfabrics.com/proddetai...292487009%2DYD
Cheers!
Barb

[I M Kilted!]

I also found Tailor's Canvas on google:

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ind...S&Category=485

1)Which would you reccomend?

Also, Broadcloth fabric for lining:

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ind...S&Category=445

2)Is this Broadcloth fabric suitable for lining?

[Barb T]

I wouldn't consider using anything but woven interfacing (the nonwoven stuff doesn't shape very well with steam, so I'd skip the Pellon). The Accro woven interfacing on this page has nothing about weight or composition. Tailoring canvas varies enormously in weight, and just because it says tailoring canvas doesn't mean that it's suitable for a kilt. I'd pick a site that at least tells you what's in the stuff and what the weight is. I'd aim for something that says "heavy weight".

Broadcloth is on the thin side for good kilt lining - feels flimsy and is pretty see-through. I'd aim for a good 100% cotton quilting fabric that's a bit on the heavier side. Twill sateen is also good and is more substantial yet.

Barb

[MacWage]

I wanted to bump this up for the newer "kilt makers."

It is one Very interesting thread on the issue of structural cavas in wool kilts.

[Alan H]

another *bump*

for the hair canvas....just ordered a yard.