Swirling apron

[Mipi]

I'm finishing my kilt, which looks Ok with one problem; the apron keeps swirling to the front a bit. I've tryed to pin the apron lining to be a bit nerrower then apron with some good responce. But I'm not sue if that is correct way to solve this.

Please advice me.

[Alan H]

This is probably on the left side, yes? This is a common problem. One way to tackle it is to iron/stretch/iron/stretch the fabric INSIDE the under-apron pleat to make it a little bit wider INSIDE the under-apron pleat.

You can also iron out the left hand edge of the over-apron and make it 1/2 inch longer at the bottom and re-iron it in. That might help.

[Mipi]

Actually it's on both sides. Maybe the starting problem is, that I made underapron pleat, while doing reverse Kingussie (afterwards I got info it's really not needed).

You're suggestion is telling me that making the linening of apron a bit nerrower then apron will help to solve this. At least I know I'm on the right way.


Thanks Alan!

Regads!

[Ancienne Alliance]

I would think it's the other way around ! Barbara T. would probably say it's a flare problem. The actual shaping of the apron.
Barb, if youre reading this...


Best,

Robert

P.S. Post a picture of the problem if you can.

[parker_db]

I too would love to know the solution to this problem. I have a couple of economy kilts that do this and am in the process of making my first kilt and want to avoid this if possible. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!

[Alan H]

I've only run across this issue a couple of times, and it was only problematic on one kilt...a stillwater Standard, which was their old model standard, now more-or-less the same as their budget kilt. I never solved it.

The reason that the edges curl forwards is probably pretty simple. The apron isn't wide enough. Now, how to fix that once the kilt is made......

[Pleater]

I do reverse Kingussie kilts, and like to have the under apron pleats, and good big ones too, as it means I can climb over obstacles easily and the apron falls modestly when sitting down too.

Is the problem that the pleat is rolling outwards rather than folding on the line you expected?

I get that all the time, or would do if I did not draw up the inner fold of the pleat above the edge of the apron and let it settle so there is a triangle of the pleat visible up above the apron. I tack it and check that it is right by wearing it around the house before sewing it permanently. I sew on the waistband leaving that pleat free, press the band and sew it down on the inside over the small pleats, so the kilt is almost finished. When I finish the waistband the triangle can be folded over inside the band if it is so narrow it can be left flat.

Usually the inner fold needs to be raised 1/2 or 1/3 of an inch for me.

If your kilt is wool I think that you could run a thread along the fold for a few inches, draw it up so it is slightly gathered and then press it, which would have the same sort of effect without having to undo the waistband.

With other fabric you might be able to make a horizontal dart just below the waistband to take out the excess.

[Mipi]

So, I'll try to post some pics, with my DIY kilt and problematic apron. I'm not sure the problem will be seen very well, due to camo material.First the photo of swirling edge of apron:



Detail on buckle and belt loop with hanger for sporran (or other):



Front (on me):



Back (on me):



And the way are store it:





Regards to all!

[Wolfgore]

Looking pretty good to me Mipi.
Great job.

[The Wizard of BC]

First let me say that that is not a bad job for a DIY Kilt. Congratulations on a very good piece of work.

Now to helping you with your problem.

The first thing I notice is your apron. It is narrow AKA a Utilikilt. This style of apron is always prone to curling. There is usually nothing that can be done to completely prevent it. It is the style.
This style of apron is supposed to curl. Many people like it and think it adds to the masculine look.

In a Traditional Kilt the apron is full width or slightly more than 1/2 of the waist. This allows the edges of the aprons to be around the waist and hip helping them to take a smooth line and not curl outward.

I also notice the edges of your apron are not tapered. Tapering the apron edges is definetly required to combat the edges from curling.
The problem with using modern, non-wool fabrics is that they do not readily take the shaping that Wool will so you have to use straight lines.

The third problem you may be experiencing is the fabric itself. The fabric you chose is very light weight. It does not drape by it's own weight. This will also add to the cause of apron and pleat curl.
What you are going to find is that not only your aprons are going to curl and gape open but your pleats are going to curl too. Especially as you have not Steeked your pleats and the bottom of the Fell.

I know this may seem like a lot to take in and I am using some words you may not know but I can only speak in terms a kiltmaker knows for a kiltmaker problem.

If you would like you can PM me and I can go further into details on how to improve on your next kilt.