Apron question

[Bjordnolf]

I just basted my apron and lined up the parallel stripes while stitching. But now the apron looks all skewed. Is this as it should be at this point? Is it the pressing that takes care of this later?
Thanks

[Pleater]

If you have sewn along the edges of the apron, which is a trapezoid shape wider at the bottom, then if you try to line up the horizontals of the cloth at any distance from the crease it will fight against it.

Personally, I leave about the right amount of cloth for the apron and the under apron pleat and then make the back pleats and waistline. I can then try on the kilt to see if it needs any shaping at the sides to make an even back hemline. For me, this can mean cutting the tops off the pleats which make up 1/4 or 1/3rd of the pleated part on each side of the centre back.

The thickness of the cloth, its maleability etc all affect how it makes a three dimensional surface over a rather irregular solid shape, and the large pleats at the edge of the apron provide an ideal point at which to insert a twist which alters the height of the waistline either at the front or the back to give a correct fit.

I leave the edges of the apron and under apron free, and use safety pins to hold the large pleats so they can be adjusted so the apron flares and the pleats do not buckle or twist in wear. This might take several days of wearing the part finished kilt, adjusting the safety pins until the upper edge and fell can be sewn.

[Barb T]

In the traditional method of kiltmaking, the apron and underapron edges are trapezoids, but, despite this, the stripes are matched horizontally on the wrong side of the kilt. This means skewing the deep pleat or facing and basting it into place. The result is indeed skewed, and the reason for tailor basting the area above the bottom of the fell is to spread out the bubbles and wrinkles and hold them evenly for pressing. Wool is a very "shapable" fabric, and a good steam press over a curved surface (a tailor's ham) will get rid of all the bubbles and wrinkles. The drawings below from my book show what I mean (the drawings are for the right edge of the underapron, but they apply to all of the apron edges). And, when you are doing the tailor basting, you need to stretch as you stitch so that it's shaped and smooth while you're stitching.

Barb

[GlassMan]

This entire discussion (along with other questions about kilt making on this site) has made me ever more thankful for the expertise of the kilt makers on this site and others from whom I have purchased. Thank God for all of you, because without you I'd never be wearing a kilt. This all is simply way to complicated for me to ever even consider making one on my own and so makes me appreciate the quality of the kilts I have purchased.

THANKS A MILLION FOR PROVIDING SO MUCH INFORMATION AND FOR MAKING SUCH GOOD PRODUCTS!

Just thought you all needed a pat on the back.