13oz vs 16oz kilts

[matt.mackinnon]

I get that a heavier weight in fabric can equate to a more durable kilt, but from what I have seen of examples, a 16oz fabric is generally coarser as the knit is not as tight as the yarn that makes it is heavier.

But from reading posts here, it seems that many like the 16oz kilt more than that of a 13oz. Is that just because I have not seen better quality fabric, or does it just come down to preference?

I get the feeling from my other thread, that I am going to be pulling my order from one kilt maker in Toronto, and going with John Hart even though it's likely a good 3-4 month wait for my order.

From my limited conversation with John, he recommended a 16oz kilt from House of Edgar. I had originally ordered a 13oz kilt from Strathmore.

Matt.

[The Wizard of BC]

Matt,

The weave of 16oz fabric is not looser. The tension of the yarns and the tightness of the weave is about the same.

There are two ways to make kilt fabric heavier. One is to use thicker yarns. This produces what may feel coarser but not any looser.
The other way is to pack more yarns per inch into the weave. This would produce a less coarse feel but sometimes a stiffer fabric.

Some weaving mills use one method, some the other. Most of the larger mills with rapier looms use the larger yarn method.

The primary reasons to choose one weight over another are 1. The cost is a bit more for 16oz. 2. The swish factor is better with heavier fabric 3. A heavier kilt is a bit warmer around the back of the waist.

[Laird_M]

IMHO, the only real difference between the two is the weight and comfort. It also tends to be labelled as 'military weight' due to the wear it may get on the battlefield.
A 13oz kilt can be quite hot, and having, briefly, once worn a 16oz, I found it a bit too warm.

If the weave is loose, I'd suggest avoiding that material as it hasn't been woven properly.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

IMHO, the only real difference between the two is the weight and comfort. It also tends to be labelled as 'military weight' due to the wear it may get on the battlefield.
A 13oz kilt can be quite hot, and having, briefly, once worn a 16oz, I found it a bit too warm.

If the weave is loose, I'd suggest avoiding that material as it hasn't been woven properly.

FYI, if you see tartan labelled as military weight or regimental weight, it will be 18 oz cloth and woven from different yarns than your typical 16 oz worsted. Regimental cloth, according to my understanding is woven using a combination of worsted and saxony yarns, which gives the regimental weight that "fuzzier" feel and appearance.

Here's a close up of 16 oz worsted tartan.


Here's a close up of 18 oz regimental tartan.


If you look you can see the regimental weight example has more "fuzz" to it.

[JohntheBiker]

Matt,

My first kilt was a 13oz Strathmore, Campbell of Cawdor. I love the kilt and it has held up really well. With perfect hindsight, if I only had one kilt, I might have gone for a 16oz "tank".

13oz or 16oz - if you get a hand sewn kilt from a good kiltmaker and tartan from a reputable mill (Strathmore falls into that category) you can't go far wrong.

[creagdhubh]

Matt,

All of my kilts are made of 16 ounce, heavy-weight tartan. I have always believed that the heavier material is well suited for kilt-making specifically in regards to providing deep pleats, durability and a superb swing. There is actually a Macpherson tartan that I am I rather fond of, the Macpherson 'muted' woven by House of Edgar, in which they offer in their 13 ounce, medium-weight range, but not in their 16 ounce, heavy-weight range. Even though I really like this tartan, I probably will never "pull the trigger" on having a kilt made up in it due to the lighter weight, but hey, that's just me and one of my weird, little quirks!

16 ounce, Macpherson 'hunting' tartan in the 'ancient' colour scheme, from Lochcarron's Strome (heavy-weight) line.



Cheers,

[matt.mackinnon]

when saying it's not as tight, perhaps this casts the wrong image. Think of silk vs cotton. As the threads of silk are so much smaller, you end up with a tighter weave of fabric as there is less texture on the top and it gives you a much smoother finish. Not that cotton has gaping holes in it.

I was always of the opinion that the swish is controlled by the type of pleats in the fabric and their depth. A knife pleat will always swish better than a box.