Newbie looking for second kilt...

[celliottii]

For the last five years, I've been wearing a Pride of Scotland - Modern tank (just learned that term tonight...thanks XMTS)...wearing it two to three times per year. I love my kilt and have started experimenting wearing it with different upper garments to "get away" from the traditional look with the fly plaid, gillies, etc.

As my wife and I tend to be traditionalists, I'd like to pick up another tank. Here's the dilemma...my clan tartan (Elliot) seems difficult to find.

Another thing I'm running into is the weight. I know the heavier the weight, the more pleats...I think? Also, the length...do I measure my inseam to just above my knees?

Thanks for any and all help with this...especially in finding the tartan.

[Mikilt]

Celliottii,
You've come to the right place. Regrettably, I can't help you with your clan tartan. When you do find it and find a good kiltmaker, the kiltmaker will give you instructions on how to take the measurements they need. Chances are good that they'll have you measure from your true waist to just above your knee, not your inseam. But this can vary from kiltmaker to kiltmaker.

[The Wizard of BC]

First of all, Welcome.

Now, let's see if I can help to clear some things up for you.

The Elliot Tartan is actually not that difficult to find. It is carried as a stock Tartan by at least two weavers that I deal with. "Stock" meaning that they weave it often enough that there is usually some on a shelf somewhere.

About that word "Tank" - this usually refers to a Traditional style Kilt designed to be worn up, just under the ribs. A Tank is usually hand-stitched and usually made from heavy weight Wool. This weight of wool is usually 16oz per Fabric Yard so a Tank would usually weight about 4 lbs. Note that I say usually a lot. There are no written in stone laws of what a Tank is, we here just use the term to mean a full traditional kilt. If you will weigh your HOS kilt I think you may be surprised that it does not weigh as much as a full Tank.

OK, fabric weight has nothing to do with how many pleats a kilt will have. The number of pleats is usually determined by the Hip circumference of the wearer and the size of the Tartan pattern (The Sett). A traditional kiltmaker will usually start with 4 yards of double-width fabric. They rip in in half length-wise and join it get 8 kilt yards.
The aprons take up a certain amount of fabric as do the deep and reverse pleats. Whatever is left over will be folded into pleats for the back.

We're up to your measuring question. You should measure for your kilt using the system of the person who will actually make your kilt. Never use one kiltmakers system and send those measurements to a different kiltmaker.
But in general There are three measurements you will usually be asked for. One is the waist circumference. This would usually be taken at the place you are going to wear the waist of the kilt but follow the instructions of your kiltmaker.
The second is the Hip circumference. This is usually take at the widest part of the hip and/or butt. But again, follow the instructions.
Finally there is the Drop. Different kiltmakers used different definitions of Drop. Some start at the natural waist (right up, just under the ribs) and some down lower at the naval. Simple answer - Follow the instructions.

[mookien]

Generally, the number of pleats in a kilt is determined by the length of the fabric - 4, 5, 6, 8 yards, etc. But, for any particular length of fabric the weight of the kilt is directly related to the weight per square yard of the fabric. Wool often comes in nominal 11, 13, 15, 18 oz. weights - often (again) referred to as light, medium, heavy, and regimental (or military) cloth.

The Elliot tartan is available from at least three mills - The House of Edgar, Lochcarron, and Strathmore which you can see respectively at ....

http://www.houseofedgar.com/acatalog...t_Tartans.html

http://www.lochcarron.com/tartanstrome/elliot.html

http://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/m...6&cat=5&page=2

I suggest that you contact a reputable kilt provider/maker (many are on this forum) and work with them to acquire the kilt that best suits your needs. They will also describe in detail how to determine the "correct" length for you.

Good luck!

[celliottii]

THANKS! I apologize for my errors in terminology and appreciate the information!

[Kilted Cole]

http://www.usakilts.com/premier-8-yard-wool-kilt.html

[Father Bill]

Pick your kiltmaker first, and let them acquire your tartan. They have ongoing business relationships with the mills and will work with you to know what you want, and then with them to get it.

Always start with the kiltmaker!

...and welcome!

[Couper]

http://www.usakilts.com/premier-8-yard-wool-kilt.html

Yes, it looks like Rocky has six variants of the Elliot tartan on that page.

[Arnot]

Welcome from Lancashire, UK. I live in the UK now, but I grew up in Belding. Don't hold it against me, though.

[Sir William]

...my clan tartan (Elliot) seems difficult to find.

Welcome from another Elliot!

As noted, the Elliot tartan is readily available. Any kiltmaker should be able to get it, though I recommend ordering swatches so you can check the color variations, which differs among the various weavers.