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12th August 09, 11:51 AM
#11
new marking
Hello,
I read the comments of Barb and The wizard of BC.
So I made a new marking for the aprons.

It does look better!
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13th August 09, 04:12 AM
#12
Marvy - looks much better!
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25th August 09, 05:51 AM
#13
I've been looking on the internet to buy some Tailor's pride interfacing.
I contacted Vogue-fabrics at www.voguefabricsstore.com. They told me they went out of Tailor's pride hair canvas. It probably wouldn't come back in stock.
Does anyone has a good alternative for the interfacing??????
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25th August 09, 09:18 AM
#14
 Originally Posted by Dutch piper
I've been looking on the internet to buy some Tailor's pride interfacing.
I contacted Vogue-fabrics at www.voguefabricsstore.com. They told me they went out of Tailor's pride hair canvas. It probably wouldn't come back in stock.
Does anyone has a good alternative for the interfacing??????
The loss of our beloved Tailor's Pride was discussed in a thread this summer.
Barb mentioned some US sources of Hymo heavy interfacing here. Perhaps our UK and Continental members know of other sources.
Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
gainfully unemployed systems programmer
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4th October 09, 02:10 AM
#15
Can anyone tell me why it is necessary to use a pressing ham when pressing the kilt? Can't the pressing be done just on the ironing board? And when I read Barb's book correctly, the stitched part of the pleats aren't pressed at all.
I'm not ready for pressing yet, I'm just aout to start basting the pleats. But I'd like to know before I get to the pressing part.
Greetz
I found a wonderfull stiff canvas I can use as an interfacing.
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4th October 09, 04:38 AM
#16
Yes, pressing is done on an ironing board. The pressing ham is used to shape the aprons around your hips and legs. Wool and PV can be shaped and makes the aprons curve around to your side. Otherwise you will have an apron that looks like a cardboard apron and doesn't mold to your body (OK, just kidding about the cardboard thing, but it really does help shape the aprons). You can use a rolled towel if you don't want to invest in a pressing ham.
Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine.
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7th October 09, 02:42 PM
#17
 Originally Posted by Dutch piper
the stitched part of the pleats aren't pressed at all.
Actually, you press the entire kilt, including the part of the pleats that is stitched.
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8th October 09, 09:15 AM
#18
Canvas
OK, the pressing is clear for me. thanks for your comments.
The next thing I'm not sure of is the cutting of the canvas.
In Barb's book it says:" cut two pieces of canvas of these dimensions, with the length parallel to the straight grain of the canvas".
Allas...my English is not sufficient enough, what does this mean?
I have a piece of canvas that is very bendable in one direction, in the other direction it's very stiff. How should I cut my piece?
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8th October 09, 04:40 PM
#19
I have always cut my hair canvas on the length wise direction. That way I can maximize my hair canvas. I would suggest that you should have the stiff direction up and down on the kilt. That way it holds the aprons and pleats upright and allows the more supple direction to bend around your waist. Hair canvas is a wonderful material that will mold to your form and become very comfortable.
Wallace Catanach, Kiltmaker
A day without killting is like a day without sunshine.
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9th October 09, 05:46 AM
#20
You definitely want the stiff direction up and down (to keep the pleats from buckling) and the flexible direction around the body.
"Straight grain" means parallel to the warp, or long direction, of a piece of fabric.
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