X-Kilt A-Shaping Question

[SergeantBort]

Okay, so I was suggested to do the A-shaping of the over apron, and I understand how to shape it. But I am not sure how to fold to keep the material one solid piece of fabric when you fold down the over apron, that's tapered like the A shape. I just see the material angling down, below the bottom hem of the kilt..... I am just confused with this.

Any helps are greatly appreciated, I have tried to search everywhere on here and have not been able to find anything addressing this.

No pictures yet, I just got the material, I am just a visual person, and need to have some visual idea of what im about to do before I do it... so if anyone can help me out.. I have read over the X-Kilt directions a few times and im still confused.

Thanks !

[fluter]

Weel, the pleat is going to be deeper at the top. then as you've observed, the hem will be uneven. For a rough and ready X-kilt, I did not worry about it too much.

IF there is a hem, you can make it shorter at the inner fold of the deep pleat (under the apron). That's actually how the traditional kilt is done. Even if there is a kilting selvedge on your fabric, in a couple of places you turn up a smidgen of hem, to make it neat.

It seems to me that we often raise that same fold at the waistband/fell, just a touch, to make the edge of the apron lie better. That would reduce the discrepancy some, but not eliminate it. I don't have an X kilt in front of me now, but I'm reasonably sure that's the spot we have discussed.

Hope this helps: your workmanship looks great!

[Smayniac]

I've never been happy with the way the left edge of the over apron lays after A shaping, I'll have to try Fluter's suggestion to let the top fall below the waist band and hem the bottom. The structure of the kilt I'm working on now will actually make that fairly easy to accomplish; although I'll have to rip out some hem and then resew after making the deep pleat.
Bob

[ChattanCat]

You match the stripes on the back side of the fold to the front. This requires you to slide or skew the fabric layers to keep the elements of the tartan on top of each other. You also need to baste as you go down the edges of the aprons to hold the skewing. I poke the needle thru the layers to see how much I have to skew. The amount of skewing will vary from top to bottom.

Cheers,

[fluter]

You match the stripes on the back side of the fold to the front.

Wally is (of course) correct for tartan/wool. I was thinking of my solid cotton kilt

[Alan H]

The inside part of the fold.... you know, the "inside of the first pleat" that hangs down below the hem........???

Well, just rip out the hem in that area, and stitch in another one that's a little bit deeper. Then iron the bejeezus out of it so that it lays flat.

Or....don't worry about it. It's an X-Kilt, for knocking around in, not for formal wear.