@Elizear I've had the material for about 5 months now and got it at Jo-Anns. It was the closest they had to what I think was useable for they didn't carry any tweed and wasn't ready for denim (my poor sewing machine). I have no idea what type of material it is now though. I'll have to see if I still have the receipt (I have to go to Jo-Anns today anyway, I'll see if they still carry it).

@Anne, thnx for the advice, Yes I am not new to sewing (I've made plenty of my kids costumes and hemmed a few of my wife's pants), but pleats are a first for me and didn't want to walk around with a big poof, or unwanted kilt faux pas. My next one will definitely not be a stock xkilt as I can see variations already. Just wanted to get my basics honed. I'll keep the "W" idea in mind as I already have the underpleat sewn and waistband on. If my lower underpleat line still falls below the apron hem, I might just hem the underpleat a tad, we'll see

ALL, (yes I am already thinking of my next one) and am wondering what is more appropriate. I am looking into making a 2 tone kilt based on either Green/Gold or Scarlet/Grey color schemes, and wondering what looks best, the dark on top light inside (pleats) or reverse?