X-Kilt Apron and First Pleat Problems

[Kilt Alive]

I'm a complete newbie to X Marks the Scot, though I have trawled the forums for a long time to find answers to various DIY questions. But I am in a bind with my first x-kilt and could use some help.

While checking the fit of my first x-kilt after completing the tapered pleats (looked very solid by any measure!) but unlike my daughter who though it looked great especially with my Darth Maul t-shirt, it did not look quite right. I am not 100% convinced I have the first pleat utterly wrong.

Basically the first pleat has two (2) folds that align with the left edge of the over apron. See this image which shows the stacked accordian fold from the hem:


The top pleat is ~1.5 inches or half the 3 inches from the layout instructions to use to "set" the first pleat.

I "think" what I need to do is:
- take out the t bar tacking and the hem to fell stitching of the right edge (up against the over apron)
- follow the directions AlanH provides for making the "giant" pleat under the over apron
- then make the #1 pleat ~2.5" deep at the hem and ~5" deep at the waist

Is this right, or am I off in the weeds?

Next when "setting" the first 3" or so of the over apron to the material of the deep reverse pleat, are the top edge of the two pieces of material to be aligned, or, does the reverse pleat material run at a slight downward angle?

Finally, when fixing the deep pleat on pleat #1, so I a fix any of the pleat material to the waist?

I am this close to finishing my first x-kilt, but i'm confused, lacking confidence, and have no working example to borrow o fgure it all out.

Thanks,

John Dugaw
[French, Prussian, and Scottish, you figure it out!]

[ChattanCat]

Alan H, your expertise is requested.

[fluter]

You've made the 1st half of the 1st pleat a "double" pleat. That will probably work just fine. By "first half" I mean the left-hand side which you have showed in the photo, or the right-hand side of the wearer.

I had to read the directions several times to figure out that the 1st half was supposed to be extra deep, so it would overlap the back half rather than abutting it at the fell. I figured this out after finishing my first X-kilt, so you're ahead of me on points.

The 1st pleat on each side is not usually tapered at the waist...

The pleat under the (wearer's) left side of the apron may be the source of misunderstanding. Normally that's extra deep---on a knife pleat we call it the deep pleat---to allow ease of movement. The extra material in the 1st pleat is there for the same reason! That deep pleat accomodates any A-line flare that you build into the apron's left edge, so it may be perceptibly bigger at the top than at the bottom.


Here's where my apron and pleat meet on X-kilt #1. Note that the 1st half of the box pleat is too shallow by Alan's recipe (does not overlap the back half).





So, if your "deep" pleat in combination with that double fold will give you enough room to move, I'd go right ahead, finish the kilt, and wear it. It looks like you're on the right track---the second effort will be even better, and you can incorporate any improvements you may think of while wearing this one.

Congratulations!

[Kilt Alive]

Thanks for the photo it helped a lot.

So I "think" I'm going to go ahead and tear out my work as I don't have a lot to do today and the weather is great for staying indoors.

couple of questions:
- looks like you bar tacked over apron to first pleat, yes?
- when stitching waist to fell did you also stitch some of the waist band's deep pleat to anchor it?

I re-pinned the deep pleat for the over apron and figured out what I want to do once I fix the double pleat issue.

Thanks again, very helpful!

John

[Tartan Hiker]

couple of questions:
- looks like you bar tacked over apron to first pleat, yes?
- when stitching waist to fell did you also stitch some of the waist band's deep pleat to anchor it?
John

Yes to both questions. Hopefully you didn't put too much taper in the apron edge or you'll have serious alignment issues.

[Kilt Alive]

SWEET!

Just:
- T Bar tacked the apron to the first pleat
- stitched hem to fell on both
- re-ironed the deep pleats and pinned them

Tried it on and it looks symmetrical from the front per my wife, and from the wearers view it looks way more like I expected it to look.

So . . . off to finish the stitching and perhaps I can post with a finished pic.

Again many thanks to AlanH, and all the other X-marks-the-scot posters helping other X-kilters. I learned more from those than perhaps you might think.

John
[French, Prussian, and Scottish - you figure it out]

[12stones]

Great to hear. Can't wait to see the final product.

[Alan H]

Absolutely, do that. And then this...and then sew the bromstickkerootchie all the way to the bung with a triple overhand bypass stitch and it'll look GREAT!

or whatever you did!

Sorry, it's been a busy weekend!

[fluter]

couple of questions:
- looks like you bar tacked over apron to first pleat, yes?
- when stitching waist to fell did you also stitch some of the waist band's deep pleat to anchor it?

Yes to both questions.

KA--sorry I missed the follow-up questions. Thanks, TH!

As best I recall from X-kilt #1, I tacked the upper corner of the deep pleat near the waist. Then later when the front of the waistband is attached, that is sewed through waistband, apron, and both layers of the deep pleat. It's well attached by this time, so you are wise to pin it up and check everything.

It may help to raise the inside fold of the deep pleat just a smidge compared to the apron---perhaps 3/16 inch. Thanks to pleater and others for pointing this out. This can help prevent apron curl, but my apron edge still does it. Since that photo, I have ripped out the 2 rows of stitching on the apron edge, and will just see where it "wants" to fold in order to lie nicely. Then I'll press and stitch the edge again. too bad, I thought that my top-stitching was pretty good for a beginner.

[Kilt Alive]

Pics and a mixed personal review.

So overall I'm pleased with the results. Now that it is completed I'm concerned at the light color of the material. It was on-sale and there was a lot of it.

Anyway, when ironed up and out for the first time seems to hang nicely in the back. So despite this picture:

http://picasaweb.google.com/john.dug...61955168840610
It actually hangs quite nicely and evenly.

Now round to the front and things work pretty well overall at first, but I'm concerned about the wrinkles in the apron.
http://picasaweb.google.com/john.dug...61963882160866

Not sure what the deal is . . . thoughts?

Wife and kids think it is pretty kewl, and I have a new found appreciation the kilt and tailors everywhere.

Thanks to all for the last push of induced confidence!

Kilt Alive
[French, Prussian, and Scottish, you figure it out.]