Please clarify reverse pleats

[way2fractious]

Pleater has suggested narrower-than-traditional aprons so that they actually fall between the knees when sitting. Incidentally, the reverse Kinguisse pleating style she describes is exactly what Utilikilts uses.

The Wizard of BC reminds us that the deep pleat and the reverse pleat appear far too deep at the hip line, but when you add flare to the aprons of 1.5 to 2 inches on each side, the depths at hemline are much smaller.

I have made several cotton casuals with 2-inch reveals and 4-inches hidden. This produces only three layers of fabric below the hip line and makes them very easy to realign for ironing.

My most irritating issue with cotton or cotton/poly kilts has been the "dip," where the hem on the deep and reverse pleats has to be modified to prevent the points from showing beneath the aprons. Because cotton is so unforgiving, the dips canot be handled the same way as wool. Despite several experiments, I still have to reach down and adjust the deep pleats back into place after they have been extended. It has just become a second-nature movement, similar to the sweep before sitting.

Anyway, let nothing deter you from making your own kilt. My first handmade attempt (and several others) is not the prettiest nor most used of my kilts, but it retains an honored place in my closet and it is still used on occasion.