Hello everyone!

My boss at work saw me wearing my tartan kilt and mentioned that a tan or khaki one would fall under dress code, and that I'd be able to wear it, if I wasn't allowed, that would be discriminating, as the girls get to wear skirts. I don't think he thought I'd go through and actually get one.

I'm making an x kilt, or trying to. It's made from a total of $20 worth of fabric from walmart, not the best quality, but good enough that it will pass dress code until I want to invest in something like a Utilikilt. I have it cut to length, well, cut to drop, and hemmed.

I'm about to chalk in the pleats, and thankfully, I'm the same measurements as in the appendix 1, with 10 3 inch pleats and a 10 inch over apron.

My questions are this: What is the under apron pleat, and why is it 12 inches? What is the inner fold of the first pleat, and why is it 3" instead of the normal 5.25? And the same with the front-facing inner fold of the last pleat.

I'm most likely going to try to cut one of these to scale on a piece of paper, to try to understand it, but in the meantime, before I start sewing, I'd like to know what those are. Thank you, and yes, I will put up pictures.