Working from the success of the X-kilt pattern and other kiltmaking groups and classes, I propose that we form a work group to tackle the issue and create a method to create patterns customized to our bodies and methods of construction and tailoring to make them fit as well as we can manage (not being professional tailors).

It strikes me that in looking at kilt jackets, most don't do a good job of fitting in length (reaching the waist or fell) or are hard to come by in larger or tall/short sizes that truly fit.

While there are some new options (and more coming thanks to SWK, the Tartan Museum and Freedom Kilts), it would be nice to be able to make one's own custom-fit jackets in different fabrics or for special occassions.

Likewise, the same fit problems some of us have now will probably be present in the newer options since the problem is in the disproportions from the "norm" of the master pattern. It isn't cost-effective to mass-produce kilt jackets that fit those of us who represent the hard-to-fit range.

Although there are rudimentary commercial patterns here and there, the same fit problems are present, as well as limited sizes of patterns. There is only so much alteration to a commercial pattern one can do before creating a custom pattern is easier.

From previous posts, it seems that there are others interested in kilt jacket patterns and how to do it ourselves. If you are interested in this, let me know. I'm happy to share what I'm learning with anyone else who is interested.

I will post my slow progress on this thread. However, I need some partners in crime to work with me since I am really a novice at sewing, patternmaking and construction. I figure that we'll make mistakes, but can learn collectively how to make a prototype pattern or patterns that others can use, along with instructions and tips to avoid the problems we've encountered.

I would greatly appreciate it if some of the kilt makers would join in and monitor the thread regarding how to make the jackets look best with the kilts. I'm guessing that there are common frustrations that kiltmakers have with the jackets they see at various functions, too. This would be the forum to address those concerns to make sure we don't replicate them.

I would also appreciate it if anyone from the Highland regiments in the U.K or Commonwealth would share their invaluable knowledge of how the military jackets are or were fitted and worn. All of the current jackets and doublets were or are variations on military jackets from England, Scotland, Ireland and later U.K. renditions, so far as I've been able to determine.

From my reading thus far, I know that the military jackets varied by time period and by regiment. Although that may be too daunting a task to handle in total here, we should be able to construct the basic tunic pattern that allows one to make variations from there (for reenactment enthusiasts).

First: What are the problems and gripes/concerns you have with kilt jackets that you'd like the group to try to remedy?

For example: Shouldn't the sides of a Prince Charlie should come at least to the waist to cover the shirt, and the tail drop to the fell line on the kilt? I know mine doesn't, even though it is supposed to be a "long".

From looking at pictures on vendor sites, it appears that this is the goal, but the jackets don't fit the people. This could be that the "normal" proportions are derived from olden days when people were smaller, or just the fact that you can't fit every body in the rental or mass production of jackets for a niche market.

Please post your concerns or complaints about jackets here and I'll create a poll for everyone to vote to help us prioritize the issues.