Montrose Doublet

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Sean, as one Irirsh man to another, I'm going to have to disagree with you, just a tad, over the use of "regulation" vs "standard" when describing doublets. In my admittedly far from complete collection of scottish outfitters catalogues (1910 up through the mid 50s) a gentleman's evening doublet is repeatedly referred to as a standard doublet. In Renton's catalogue (c.1950 but definately post-WWII) they list a bandsman's jacket as "our regulation doublet" and the illustration shows a typical standing collar, button up the front, band jacket. Similar to, but different than, the illustration of a "standard evening doublet" elsewhere in their catalogue. I believe that the term "regulation" comes from the fact the the bandsmans jackets conform in style to the "regulation pattern" of those worn by the army.

Interestingly, it is not until the introduction of the Prince Charlie Coatee that most outfitters begin to call their doublets "standard" as in "our standard doublet", probably to give a boost to the sales of the then new (and certinly cheaper to make) PCC. Early catalogues simply refer to a doublet or evening doublet.

It would be intersting to know when and how the word "regulation" came to be applied to the civilian doublet. I suspect it may be a carry over from the Lord Chamberlain's rules for dress worn at Court (a doublet is required for Scottish levee dress) but that is pure speculation on my part.

Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?

With best regards from a Wicklow man--