So: i'm starting on kilt #5, a traditional hand sewn ( following Barbs 'bible'- aka "The Art of Kiltmaking"). Spent a good portion of the day doing test pleats & reading & re-reading 'AoK'.
Finally ( after numerous versions of 'to the stripe', and box-pleating) decided to go with ( & practise) pleating to the sett.
Here are some photos that I thought might help others (IF [BIG "IF"] I did this correctly! -please, kiltmakers, let me know if I've done this wrong, BEFORE I start sewing - tomorrow!).

First, I studied the "elements of the sett" and marked off those elements between 5/8" & 1", marking "A", as what I have already chosen as center stripe/'center back stripe':
-from left to right: F,A,B,C,D,E:


2nd, a close-up of the test pleat, with the "elements" marked:
F,A,B,C,D,E,F,A,B,C,D,E,F,A
(I notice that the pleats differ in the width of the 'reveal'/what shows; I assume this is normal? .. it seems to look 'right', as far as repeating the sett.)

and, finally, the test pleat, alongside a length of the (so far)unpleated "Maple Leaf" tartan, that I am using for this kilt (16 oz) (winter is on the way, and i'll be wanting the warm one(s)! :