Does anyone make this style coatee?

[MacLowlife]

It seems to me, more so than ever, that there is a continuum of jacket styles, perhaps not a straight line, but one with the occasional branch, (but still a range) from double breasted to single breasted and closed to single breasted and open fronted, and even to double breasted yet open fronted. Collars can be high, low, folded, or omitted entirely. So can lapels. Cuffs and tashes, buttons and buttonholes, all come and go. Some jackets can be worn more than one way- and we occasionally see pictures, especially on eBay, of jackets that are worn the wrong way.

Those in the business of selling jackets will have names for them. This helps to sell them. Those in the business of MAKING them may be less concerned about what a jacket-doublet-coatee-tunic is called and more about what the buyer wants it to look like and how it fits. And those who can have a jacket made need not worry about what to call it, other than their own.

I think we have established that someone can make this jacket and that others have similar ones, but also that its exact duplicate has not become common enough to merit a name. We have seen some interesting jackets and learned some interesting history along the way.

I hope the OP has the answer he was seeking.

[Tobus]

It seems to me, more so than ever, that there is a continuum of jacket styles, perhaps not a straight line, but one with the occasional branch, (but still a range) from double breasted to single breasted and closed to single breasted and open fronted, and even to double breasted yet open fronted. Collars can be high, low, folded, or omitted entirely. So can lapels. Cuffs and tashes, buttons and buttonholes, all come and go. Some jackets can be worn more than one way- and we occasionally see pictures, especially on eBay, of jackets that are worn the wrong way.

Those in the business of selling jackets will have names for them. This helps to sell them. Those in the business of MAKING them may be less concerned about what a jacket-doublet-coatee-tunic is called and more about what the buyer wants it to look like and how it fits. And those who can have a jacket made need not worry about what to call it, other than their own.

I think we have established that someone can make this jacket and that others have similar ones, but also that its exact duplicate has not become common enough to merit a name. We have seen some interesting jackets and learned some interesting history along the way.

I hope the OP has the answer he was seeking.

Yes, thank you everyone, it pretty much answers my questions*. To sum up, this is a rather unique jacket variation, utilising individual items from various known styles, but put together in a combination that hasn't necessarily been duplicated anywhere that we know of.

I have indeed learned a lot, as well as having been exposed to more terminology and visual styles than I was aware of. I think your statement about style being not a straight line, but rather a series of branches, is spot on. This appears to be one branch that ended.

Now the question is whether I want to attempt to replicate this particular style. And yes, I think I'm interested enough that I will be contacting Lady Chrystel to find out more!

*All questions have been answered except the last one I posed. Given the construction and style of this jacket, would it be more suited to daywear or formal attire? Or both? Consider that it has square metal buttons and tashes (Inverness flaps), giving it a more dressy or formal style. But being (presumably) made of a lovely green wool with rather normal-shaped lapels but having no collar, its style could also be very visually suitable for less-than-formal occasions. Opinions?

[CMcG]

<snip>
*All questions have been answered except the last one I posed. Given the construction and style of this jacket, would it be more suited to daywear or formal attire? Or both? Consider that it has square metal buttons and tashes (Inverness flaps), giving it a more dressy or formal style. But being (presumably) made of a lovely green wool with rather normal-shaped lapels but having no collar, its style could also be very visually suitable for less-than-formal occasions. Opinions?

If the wool were fine green barathea, I'd say a jacket like that would be quite formal by today's standards. It would resemble other doublets without falling into any named type, which would mean it would be suitable for black or white tie events.

If on the other hand, it were done in a coarser green tweed, I feel like it would bring down the level of formality. This would put it about on the same level as a dress Argyll: suitable for formal daywear, dressy evening wear, or black tie. I believe Matt Newsome has a Sherriffmuir done up in grey tweed, as an example.

[saxandpipes]

If the wool were fine green barathea, I'd say a jacket like that would be quite formal by today's standards. It would resemble other doublets without falling into any named type, which would mean it would be suitable for black or white tie events.

If on the other hand, it were done in a coarser green tweed, I feel like it would bring down the level of formality. This would put it about on the same level as a dress Argyll: suitable for formal daywear, dressy evening wear, or black tie. I believe Matt Newsome has a Sherriffmuir done up in grey tweed, as an example.

I agree 100%. It really would ultimately come down to the material used, but you wouldn't get much more "informal" than the original portrait I think. That is, the least formal one could make such a jacket/doublet, would be "very smart daywear" and that would be if it were in tweed.

I think it would make a stunning evening doublet in velvet or barathea. For the right look I think it would need to be in dark green or midnight blue, rather than black... that would just lift it one notch (or 4) in my humble opinion!

I want one!

Cheers,

Michael

[Ancienne Alliance]

Now the question is whether I want to attempt to replicate this particular style. And yes, I think I'm interested enough that I will be contacting Lady Chrystel to find out more!


ith:

Robert

[piperdbh]

Now the question is whether I want to attempt to replicate this particular style. And yes, I think I'm interested enough that I will be contacting Lady Chrystel to find out more!


ith:

Robert

Do you have her contact info, Robert?

[JSFMACLJR]

*All questions have been answered except the last one I posed. Given the construction and style of this jacket, would it be more suited to daywear or formal attire? Or both? Consider that it has square metal buttons and tashes (Inverness flaps), giving it a more dressy or formal style. But being (presumably) made of a lovely green wool with rather normal-shaped lapels but having no collar, its style could also be very visually suitable for less-than-formal occasions. Opinions?

As I have shown, a very similar doublet, belonging to my friend, works perfectly for evening dress. As you can see, his is made of velvet, with coloured facings. As that much "style" doesn't appeal to many Americans on XMTS, have one made in velvet of one colour.

Just a reminder: diamond shaped buttons aren't necessary for formal coats.

[R.S.Buff]

I have made many coats from the eighteenth and nineteenth century's for myself and others. My sales have been to reenactors in the past but now I am setting myself up to be an artisan seller for this site.

I have been looking at the MacLeay Paintings for some time and am going to create clothing inspired by elements of them. Looking at wool cloth now to make a waistcoat for myself, then coats, neckscarves. Trying to convince my wife to knit some diced hose.


That coatee and waistcoat are unusual. Having no collar, open cuffs on the coatee, and the gold lace on the waistcoat are more 18th cen features than 1860's. Then there are the epaulets that button on the sleeve seam ,or both sides, that I have only seen on 1812 French Habits. Going back to the past and lack of uniformity seem to have been features of Scots tailors.