Does anyone make this style coatee?

[Ancienne Alliance]

My 2 cents on this one, if I may.

One of the reasons why I am so fond of these “out of categories” coatees, is that they have exactly the same function as a kilt : With a T-shirt you can go to a rugby match, and the next day have tea with the Queen. I all depends on how wear it.

Nota bene, in the Nineteenth Century, square buttons where seen as “cool” , now they are considered classy/formal. I would try to find either vintage square buttons (less shiny) or very original buttons (perhaps re-enactment).

Following the same frame of thought, I wouldn't really want to exactly match the waist coat with the coatee's Barathea. I would have the waistcoat done in a “Lovat green”... a lighter green that would simply echo the darker Barathea green.

Just to demonstrate how these special coatees can be "daywear" or "Eveningwear", here are two photos of me in the same coatee :

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.








Best,

Robert

[Highlander31]

Robert, it always amazes me, how you can pull off any look.

[Ancienne Alliance]

Robert, it always amazes me, how you can pull off any look.

Thank you. That's very kind of you.


Best,

Robert

[Tobus]

My 2 cents on this one, if I may.

One of the reasons why I am so fond of these “out of categories” coatees, is that they have exactly the same function as a kilt : With a T-shirt you can go to a rugby match, and the next day have tea with the Queen. I all depends on how wear it.

Exactly! I rather tend to think that this is how they were worn originally, too, as most Highlanders did not have the means to own a closet full of clothing for different occasions.

Nota bene, in the Nineteenth Century, square buttons where seen as “cool” , now they are considered classy/formal. I would try to find either vintage square buttons (less shiny) or very original buttons (perhaps re-enactment).

Since the look I'm trying to shy away from is the ultra-formal end of the spectrum, I think your advice is perfect. Vintage buttons with some 'antiquing' to them would look great.

Following the same frame of thought, I wouldn't really want to exactly match the waist coat with the coatee's Barathea. I would have the waistcoat done in a “Lovat green”... a lighter green that would simply echo the darker Barathea green.

That's an excellent idea! You have excellent taste, Robert.

[MacLowlife]

Depending on the temperature, I think a nice doeskin or flannel wool is more versatile than barathea. It may be too hot for your neighborhood, but I think it also looks more distinctive. In a room full of tuxedoes, the great majority will be barathea ( or "plain weave" or some other term for the same thing) but there was a time when flannel was quite common. Dark barathea tends to look particularly formal, whereas flannel can be more casual without being rustic. You can also get some nice cavalry twills and hopsacks that will add texture without additional color. If you are going to buy the fabric yourself, just be sure to get more than you can possibly use, as there may not be any more if/when you go back... If you are going to let your tailor supply the fabric, ask to see a range of weights and textures.

[MacLowlife]

PS,

Robert, am I correct that you can button your jacket either with the lapels back or with the front closed, double breasted fashion?

[Ancienne Alliance]

PS,

Robert, am I correct that you can button your jacket either with the lapels back or with the front closed, double breasted fashion?

Yes sir. You are most correct.

As for example, here you have a "Le Chateaubriand" coatee open:




...and closed :





Best,

Robert

[R.S.Buff]

I would think the original coatee was a broadcloth wool, especially with all the military features on the coatee. Almost all military coats of the time were felted broadcloth. The way he painted the drape of the fabric suggests that it was a lighter cloth.

I also would not replecate the gold trimmed waistcoat in the painting, I think you could do better.

I agree with Robert that it could work as a daywear coatee or formal depending on what you wear with it if you have it made in green. The square buttons are used in formal wear now but they work so well with the coatee I would still use them.

details : are the epaulets buttoned on both sides?
the pocket flaps go to the bottom of the coat. Are they very short pockets or ornamental ?

[Mr.Charles Anthony]

Tobus-Readers;
The fellow in the drawing is wearing a common workmans coat with added cuffs, straps, fancy buttons & pockets.
By analogy, it is like buying a "Wolverine" brown canvass work coat at WalMart,& adding the 'frippies'.
It does make a good kilt coat: I have one in off white canvass, & one in grey wool, neither has the 'fancy doo-dads' however.
If you are at least semi-skilled in sewing, I can provide the Pattern source, to make your own.
(Yes, I am trying to get the images posted!)

[Tobus]

details : are the epaulets buttoned on both sides?
the pocket flaps go to the bottom of the coat. Are they very short pockets or ornamental ?

I've been wondering this myself. MacLeay didn't give us a very good view of these. I can't tell if they're external pocket flaps or "Inverness flaps".

If the experts can't make a determination, I might opt to make them external pocket flaps. Not only for (limited) functionality, but also to keep it away from the more formal side of things.

On the epaulets, it does seem to appear that there are buttons on both ends.

The fellow in the drawing is wearing a common workmans coat with added cuffs, straps, fancy buttons & pockets.
By analogy, it is like buying a "Wolverine" brown canvass work coat at WalMart,& adding the 'frippies'.

That's an interesting theory. What exactly do you mean by "common workmans coat"? And how do you arrive at this conclusion, as opposed to it being specifically made to be as shown?