Windowpane tweed Braemar jacket

[creagdhubh]

Great job! You must be size 38-40", right? Man, you have the best luck with ebay - how do you find these jackets?!!!

[Tim Little]

*** to the "Nicely done!" tally

[creagdhubh]

I believe that particular tweed is Cairngorm Heath Coffee, or something similar. I am having trouble deciding between it and the similar Evergreen Coffee for my next jacket/waistcoat combo purchase.

I think you are correct, and me too! I never really cared for the 'Braemar' style of cuffs on tweed daywear jackets, but now they seem to be growing on me. I like how they 'mirror' the shape and style of the jacket pockets, which as we know seldom change, unless you are wearing a jacket with normal ('Crail') cuffs and request the jacket pockets to be of the plain style.

I love this shade of tweed, alas, I think I have nailed my colour/design choices down to about 2 or 3 (I wish all!)! I shall be ordering my tweed jacket(s) and waistcoat(s) from Rocky, naturally. I believe I recall Rocky stating on the forum that he could possibly supply the jackets and waistcoats in other tweeds not shown on his website? I seem to remember that for some reason, but I'm not entirely sure.

I also was rather fond of the inspired 'estate' tweeds by House of Edgar that used to be offered in the form of Highland daywear jackets and waistcoats by the Scottish Tartans Museum - the option for ordering them as since disappeared, hmm.

Cheers,

[Tobus]

Thanks, gents! The late afternoon lighting/shadow wasn't that great for taking photos, and I had to do a bit of optimizing, which is why the photos look grainy or blurry. I really need a new camera. But the tweed really seems to have quite a granular blend of colours (as tweeds do, of course) in the tan sections. It seems different from other tweed textures I'm used to, though. I'm not really sure how to describe it. The fabric almost feels like upholstery fabric instead of typical tweed.

If the sleeves drive you crazy, you might ponder a way to shorten that panel a little bit. Try turning it under a half inch or so and see what it looks and feels like. You can always abandon the panels entirely if the sleeves are uncomfortably long.

I'll have to chew on that a while. As you can see below, the sleeves aren't so terribly long that they must be shortened in order to be wearable, but they are just long enough that it bothers me. I've certainly seen folks running around in sleeves longer than this, though.

I'm not sure how I'd shorten the panel without throwing off the symmetry of the shape, though. I suppose I could just reduce its entire size by 1/4" all the way around, and re-set it right in the same place it was centered before, so the overchecks still line up. That would buy me a little room to shorten the sleeve. Hmm.



One other thing I didn't mention. This jacket has a secondary button hanging inside the main button on the front. You can see it in the photo above. It's on an elastic cord that can be used to stretch across and go through the buttonhole on the other side of the jacket. I've only ever seen this sort of thing on more formal jackets (like my mess jackets). Is this normal on a Scottish-made tweed jacket? I'm thinking of cutting it off, since I'd likely not use it, and I don't like that antler button hanging there. What do you guys think?

Great job! You must be size 38-40", right? Man, you have the best luck with ebay - how do you find these jackets?!!!

Yep, size 38". Actually, I measure more like a 37". I can even squeeze into a 36" jacket. That's one of the great thing about kilt jackets - since they're worn open, exact chest fit isn't that important. It's mainly going to be the shoulders that determine whether a jacket fits me or not. And since I don't have overly square broad shoulders, I seem to be able to fit into jackets that most guys can't even think about. In fact, I actually have to watch out for jackets being too big in the shoulders and making me look ridiculous.

There are many, many vintage jackets being sold from Scotland on eBay that would fit me. I just wish I had the money to buy them all!

[creagdhubh]

Thanks, gents! The late afternoon lighting/shadow wasn't that great for taking photos, and I had to do a bit of optimizing, which is why the photos look grainy or blurry. I really need a new camera. But the tweed really seems to have quite a granular blend of colours (as tweeds do, of course) in the tan sections. It seems different from other tweed textures I'm used to, though. I'm not really sure how to describe it. The fabric almost feels like upholstery fabric instead of typical tweed.


I'll have to chew on that a while. As you can see below, the sleeves aren't so terribly long that they must be shortened in order to be wearable, but they are just long enough that it bothers me. I've certainly seen folks running around in sleeves longer than this, though.

I'm not sure how I'd shorten the panel without throwing off the symmetry of the shape, though. I suppose I could just reduce its entire size by 1/4" all the way around, and re-set it right in the same place it was centered before, so the overchecks still line up. That would buy me a little room to shorten the sleeve. Hmm.


One other thing I didn't mention. This jacket has a secondary button hanging inside the main button on the front. You can see it in the photo above. It's on an elastic cord that can be used to stretch across and go through the buttonhole on the other side of the jacket. I've only ever seen this sort of thing on more formal jackets (like my mess jackets). Is this normal on a Scottish-made tweed jacket? I'm thinking of cutting it off, since I'd likely not use it, and I don't like that antler button hanging there. What do you guys think?


Yep, size 38". Actually, I measure more like a 37". I can even squeeze into a 36" jacket. That's one of the great thing about kilt jackets - since they're worn open, exact chest fit isn't that important. It's mainly going to be the shoulders that determine whether a jacket fits me or not. And since I don't have overly square broad shoulders, I seem to be able to fit into jackets that most guys can't even think about. In fact, I actually have to watch out for jackets being too big in the shoulders and making me look ridiculous.

There are many, many vintage jackets being sold from Scotland on eBay that would fit me. I just wish I had the money to buy them all!

Tobus,

I think the sleeves look fine, and I would not risk damaging the sleeve in any way, and simply leave them alone. They are not too terribly long, but I am a stickler for detail and can even be a bit obsessive compulsive (much to the chagrin of my wife sometimes!) at times, so I understand why you are questioning the sleeve length.

I would cut the other staghorn button off. I have never seen this button style on a Highland daywear jacket, only on Highland evening jackets, so I am in agreement with you there. I never button the front of my Highland daywear jackets, so it is definitely not a loss in any way, to lose that extra button.

I know what you mean about the material feeling more like upholstery fabric. My grandfather has a tweed daywear jacket in 21 ounce Cheviot tweed made by Hugh Macpherson, Edinburgh, and it is one of the most abrasive, heavy tweed jackets I have every felt! Don't get me wrong, it's a very smart tweed jacket, and looks great with his kilt, but I don't think I would ever go that heavy.

I have seen other tweed daywear jackets on ebay, more than likely the same vintage jackets you were looking at, and they are indeed quite smart. I am a 42-44" chest, so the smaller sizes would obviously be no good for me.

Again, great find mate, and keep looking sharp and traditional (I like your choice of a 4" silver blanket pin - simple, understated, and very, very traditional)!

Cheers,

[ForresterModern]

It seems different from other tweed textures I'm used to, though. I'm not really sure how to describe it. The fabric almost feels like upholstery fabric instead of typical tweed.

I know precisely what your mean. I have an Argyll made in a different color version of the same fabric (olive with navy windowpane check) and it is a fairly stiff and slightly rough to the touch fabric, definitely not as soft and pliable as my several Harris tweed of similar weight. But it still makes a great jacket, and keeps out the wrinkle monster at the same time. It may soften up with some wear over time. Also the nice thing about most tweed is that, because nearly every tweed has a multitude of tiny thread colors in each one it really does make it easier to look "right" with a lot of different tartans and a lot of different colorways (weathered, ancient, muted, hunting, etc....).

[creagdhubh]

I know precisely what your mean. I have an Argyll made in a different color version of the same fabric (olive with navy windowpane check) and it is a fairly stiff and slightly rough to the touch fabric, definitely not as soft and pliable as my several Harris tweed of similar weight. But it still makes a great jacket, and keeps out the wrinkle monster at the same time. It may soften up with some wear over time. Also the nice thing about most tweed is that, because nearly every tweed has a multitude of tiny thread colors in each one it really does make it easier to look "right" with a lot of different tartans and a lot of different colorways (weathered, ancient, muted, hunting, etc....).

Jeff,

Have you purchased any of your tweed jackets and waistcoats from Rocky? If so, I would be curious in seeing which fabrics you chose, as it can prove difficult to actually gauge how the tweed will look once it is on the body, versus through the computer 'swatches.'

Thanks mate,

[ForresterModern]

Jeff,

Have you purchased any of your tweed jackets and waistcoats from Rocky? If so, I would be curious in seeing which fabrics you chose, as it can prove difficult to actually gauge how the tweed will look once it is on the body, versus through the computer 'swatches.'

Thanks mate,

Kyle

You are welcome, mate. No, three of my tweeds are from one Scottish vendor and the fourth was from J Higgins. The three all are pretty much true to color from what the vendor's site shows, and I also looked up the specific cloth by manufacturer, name and number from a couple other tweed fabric vendors whose pictures were better and confirmatory. The J Higgins I bought sight unseen---just wanted a grey tweed and got a nice grey herringbone, also sourced by Higgins from a UK vendor. I am ready to pull the trigger on another in the above mentioned Cairngorm Heath Evergreen windowpane tweed from the first vendor before their 15% off sale concludes tomorrow. If you want to know the vendor PM me for details.

jeff

[Tim Little]

I believe I recall Rocky stating on the forum that he could possibly supply the jackets and waistcoats in other tweeds not shown on his website? I seem to remember that for some reason, but I'm not entirely sure.

Best to check directly with Rocky himself, but this is my understanding as well from recent conversations I've had with him.

I also was rather fond of the inspired 'estate' tweeds by House of Edgar that used to be offered in the form of Highland daywear jackets and waistcoats by the Scottish Tartans Museum - the option for ordering them as since disappeared, hmm.

Those discontinued HoE tweeds seem to turn up occasionally via sporranmaker (and others?) on eBay -- as Cowher and I have each recently discovered -- so do keep your eyes peeled. It's a bit strange that HoE now only offers charcoal Argyle jackets considering how popular the other hues seem to be -- at least in these parts!

... it can prove difficult to actually gauge how the tweed will look once it is on the body, versus through the computer 'swatches.'

Speaking from my own recent experience, there's no substitute for seeing the actual cloth in person. If you ask nicely, however, Rocky seems willing to go the extra mile to help out!

[MacLowlife]

I'm not sure how I'd shorten the panel without throwing off the symmetry of the shape, though. I suppose I could just reduce its entire size by 1/4" all the way around, and re-set it right in the same place it was centered before, so the overchecks still line up. That would buy me a little room to shorten the sleeve. Hmm.


I think you could chop off the ends and leave the edges alone, but you are there and I am not. I agree that you'd want to do to both ends what you did to one and I expect a half inch or so wouldn't matter to the shape - even with that central peak a little longer.

I do agree that it looks tolerable as is, but the little things like proper sleeve length are what make our favorites that way. You don't have to do anything at first, but there are always options.

I would chop off that little extra button and save it in case one goes missing. A kilted man has enough things dangling : sporran tassels, flashes, etc.