Thread for leatherwork?

[sydnie7]

EDIT: Sorry if the "thread/thread" title confuses, I could have stated it better. . .

Starting a sporran project that I'll share if it turns out well. I got some supplies from Tandy but am not pleased with the "waxed linen thread" that I chose. It looks great (see stitching test photo) but requires a humongous hole to pull the needle/doubled thread through. Needle size doesn't seem to matter, it's the doubled end of thread that hangs up.

I'm worried that the large holes will have negative effect on fur and finer/thinner leather used in some places.

What do you stitch with? Recommendations, sources?

A few scraps and my first ever stitching on leather:

[David Thorpe]

Several possibilities, depending on the thickness and softness of the leather... I use buttonhole thread (and apply beeswax), "outdoor" heavy polyester thread, carpet thread, shoemaker's thread and waxed artificial sinew in ascending order of diameter. Another trick is to use a small pair of needle-nose pliers to push and/or pull your needle through. It is NOTHING like sewing cloth. If your needle and thread go through without considerable resistance, then your holes are way too big.

[sydnie7]

I have waxed silk button hole thread (the package says "size 8" and it is slightly smaller than the Tandy linen thread). I'll give it a try, and keep the "considerable resistance" element in mind.

[artificer]

I found Tandy's awls GROTESQUELY oversized for nearly any application, and much of their waxed thread is far too large and very over-waxed as well.

When hand sewing I use their "Sewing Awl" thread, which is a finer gauge (d277 - still heavy enough for holsters and saddles) and much less heavily waxed.

I made my own awl from a sharpened harness needle (the same size I use for actual sewing) which gives me an ideally sized hole. It means I frequently use a small pliers to drag the needle's eye through the hole, but it makes for a very clean finish.

[sydnie7]

Good stuff, thanks!

[AKScott]

I agree the prewaxed linen thread from Tandy is not ideal.

Coming at it from draught horse tack, I learned tack repair with linen thread I wax myself. Tandy does sell unwaxwed linen thread and blocks of beeswax.

If the finished piece is going to be worn by sweating latehered animal, and maintained regularly with lexol, linen thread will last for decades.

I personally don't like to sew leather with synthetic fiber threads. On a working draught horse the long long long chain polymers in synetic threads will eventually cut through the leather, by making the individual holes wider and wider and wider.

I do have a holster for a 64 ounce item sewn comercially with synthetic thread, it seems to be holding up fine, three years of ownership. I have an in law with cerebal palsy, he uses the 3/4 length crutches with a leather band around his forearm. The first pair of bands I made for him in 1994 are holding up great.

I will admit on some projects I have untwisted linen thread and then twisted back together sewing threads of two or three strands. If you are using all five strands of linen thread, you can pull a loaded beer wagon with it.

I will absolutely defer to artificer and etcetera on using other thread materials in items subjected to less wear and tear than draught and carriage horse tack. 5 strand linen thread is not amenable to artistic curves on small items.

[sydnie7]

"Pull a loaded beer wagon," love it! Sounds like my kind of thread, in different circumstances.

In these circumstances, the waxed silk buttonhole thread is working out beautifully. Thanks for the suggestion, and my luck for having it in the stash!

[Laird_M]

I use shoemakers waxed linen thread from when I used to be a cobbler. Its quite fine, and tough as old boots - if you'll excuse the pun.

I also use a home made awl, and for thicker leather I too use a small pair of pliers to pull the needle through.
It doesn't seem to damage the needles although I can now stictch around corners!

[Tobus]

I frequently use a small pliers to drag the needle's eye through the hole

I do the same thing.

First, when using their pre-waxed thread, I cut a length of thread that will be long enough to do my job. Then I run one end through the needle's eye, and pull the entire length of thread through it. The wax balls up around the eye, stripping off most of the excess. I pull the ball of wax off and throw it away, then use the thread. It makes the job a lot easier, and you don't end up with that wax balling itself up on your leather.

I measure and pre-punch my holes using a slightly larger needle which is set in a wooden handle (I made it myself). But my stitching is done usually with a glover's needle. I push the needle through using a piece of leather wrapped around my thumb (you could use a standard thimble for this, I suppose). Then I grab the needle with a pair of pliers to pull the back end through, where the doubled thread tends to hang up.

I use the double-needle method. It's not too hard pulling the first one through the hole, but the second one that comes from the opposite side can be a real pain! I sometimes bend or break the needles in the process.

As DrummerBoy said, if it goes through without a lot of resistance, your hole is too large and it will look sloppy at the end. You can make the job easier by using a stitching pony to hold the work for you, so you can use both hands for the actual stitching work.

[David Thorpe]

My stitching awl started out as a cut masonry nail and a chunk of deer antler.