I'm a bit perplexed - the edge is raw and fraying - is it where there should be a selvedge, the top and bottom of the great kilt?

If the fabric is a blend or entirely man made fibres and the locking threads at the edges have been removed, then the fabric could be in danger of sliding apart. Man made fibres can be slippery, they do not cling together like wool so threads can be drawn out easily.

Herringbone stitch is something I would only use on a proper selvedge or on a folded edge stabilised by two rows of machine stitching or a hemming tape or fabric glue - otherwise it could make the situation worse by pulling out weft threads all along the edge.

Be careful not to get the fabric wet - that is likely to make the fraying even worse.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: