Kilt belts?

[Tobus]

Punch set I picked up at Jo Ann Fabrics tonight. That was all they had there I could use. I'll order the other stuff Articer suggested tonight or tomorrow, then try and figure out what to do for leather. I found a good link for buckles: http://www.ejoyce.com/pmain?cmd=e_su...e=000100250028

leatherpunches1.jpg

You might find that this set is too small for the Chicago screws you bought. I have both the "mini" and "maxi" punch sets (as well as other types of hole punches and tools), and IIRC I usually have to use one of the punches from the larger set to make a hole big enough for a Chicago screw. Your mileage may vary, of course.

Since you're making belts that use a bar/tongue, you'll want to use an oval punch for the holes in the belt where the tongue goes through. You can fudge it by punching two round holes next to each other (or overlapping) and trimming out the rest with an Xacto knife, but it's usually a cleaner job if you just invest in an oval punch.

Oh, and you mentioned dye. I'm sure you know that once you dye the leather, you'll need to finish it with something or it'll bleed onto everything it touches. I tend to use Neat-Lac, but there are other finishes out there you can experiment with. Think carefully before dyeing the back side (rough side) of the leather, since it will be touching your kilt.

[frank_a]

I was wondering the same thing about the punches Tobus, but Jo An Fabrics had both sizes in sets, and I opted for the smaller of the two. Guess I need to look for an oval punch, but to begin with may try the punch both ends, exacto knife thing. Just ordered four buckles, all the same design as shown here, two in 3" (for belt size) and two in 2.25", both will have one brushed gold, one brushed silver. Folks I'm buying the hide from sell dye and that finish stuff. I think not dying the back of the belt is a great idea - makes it easier to figure out how the belt goes on! Also, I have a beveler and burnisher coming through Amazon (and my new tattersall shirt shipped today too!)

buckle.jpg

[frank_a]

Got my buckles today

kiltbuckles.jpg

[frank_a]

Got my brass Chicago screws today. Also am picking up a pack of Tandy brass rivets for leather tomorrow and an anvil and set tool for them. I will use those on regular belts and such, maybe a new sporran belt as well. I am getting black dye, brown dye, whatever the stuff is that sets the dye for final wear, and a 8-9 oz veg tan double shoulder hide. I'll let you know how this all goes, as this fellow may become my go-to guy for leather, in part just because he's close! I want to make some belts, then venture into sewing leathers and make a sporran.

Frank

[frank_a]

So far, looks like my hide is long enough for big old me to make some kilt belts. Gotta get a good straightedge on the widest part of the hide maybe tonight.

hide.jpg

This is a better shot of width. Looks close to 60", which is what I wanted. Also got black and brown dye, rivets, rivet setter and anvil. Rivets will be for regular pants belts, brass Chicago screws for kilt belts.

stuff.jpg

More later as I progress. Still waiting on some tools.

Frank

[flyrod6057]

Looks like you're well on your way. Just tonight, I picked up an entire side from Tandy at about $120 for 30 sq ft. It was a steal; I couldn't pass it up. I'm watching your progress, and I'll be starting on a new belt soon. I'd love to compare results!

[frank_a]

Thanks flyrod. I'm waiting on one or two more things before I go at it (larger punch set and a a strap cutter). I also found another source for 3" buckles, so want to order a few. I have some wiring and painting to do this weekend, but I do hope to at least get one good straight edge on my hide this weekend. I need at least one belt by next Saturday (the 3rd). I'll be posting pics as I go.

Good luck with yours!

Frank

[frank_a]

You might find that this set is too small for the Chicago screws you bought. I have both the "mini" and "maxi" punch sets (as well as other types of hole punches and tools), and IIRC I usually have to use one of the punches from the larger set to make a hole big enough for a Chicago screw. Your mileage may vary, of course.

Well, I lucked out, the largest punch is 11/64, and it does the trick. Saved me running to Albany today for the larger set, which saves me 1 1/2 hours of time, not to mention $!

I took some pictures, but it's not worth posting more stuff. Believe me, that 11/64ths does the trick!

Frank

[Urbane Guerrilla]

You might find that this set is too small for the Chicago screws you bought. I have both the "mini" and "maxi" punch sets (as well as other types of hole punches and tools). . .

Second that on Mini- and Maxi-punch sets. They work better on belt weight stuff than rotary punches do; those haven't the oomph. Minis and Maxis are also easier to sharpen. They do dull -- but you can fix 'em with a stone. You can see if a punch has dulled: you look at its end under a light and if you see a silver circle, you're seeing metal that is bigger across than a cutting edge is: this /]\ instead of this /\.
And as Tobus says, oval punches. Pretty holes.

Since you're making belts that use a bar/tongue, you'll want to use an oval punch for the holes in the belt where the tongue goes through. You can fudge it by punching two round holes next to each other (or overlapping) and trimming out the rest with an Xacto knife, but it's usually a cleaner job if you just invest in an oval punch.

Oh, and you mentioned dye. I'm sure you know that once you dye the leather, you'll need to finish it with something or it'll bleed onto everything it touches. I tend to use Neat-Lac, but there are other finishes out there you can experiment with. Think carefully before dyeing the back side (rough side) of the leather, since it will be touching your kilt.

If you dye back there, keep it light -- a tint, and in damp leather to soak the tint well into the leather. Then seal the heck out of it. Or see above about suede or wallet interior (really light leather) as a lining. Sealer upon dye is the only way to live with DIY dyejobs. Fortunately, a couple coats of neutral shoe polish seal well too. Even if it makes your belt smell like your shoes -- of Kiwi's best.

[TheOfficialBren]

I used an antique styled dark brown dye (two coats) and after it dried I did a once-over with some black Kiwi polish to seal it in. Yes...dark brown and then black. It made for a nice, deep, nmcient-looking patina. The waxy nature of the polish locked in the dye but the black really sat well with the tooling without over-powering. Just a thought when dyeing.