Almost finished xkilt...what do you think of the length?

**plaid preacher** · 19th November 12, 09:22 PM

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking too. I was thinking about just turning over the top and sewing it over ... doing away with the waist strip that normally would hide the raw edge. Any thoughts?

Also anyone able to take a picture of the reverse pleat and under apron? That bit of the instruction just isn't making sense to me. I think I have it right, but just need some confirmation.

**Alan H** · 19th November 12, 09:35 PM

One of the great things about the X Kilt...and really ANY "contemporary" kilt, is that there aren't a lot of rules. so I'd say, do YOU think that YOU want to shorten it? If so, then go ahead.

Personally...just my opinion, I think it looks just fine at that length.

**plaid preacher** · 20th November 12, 08:58 AM

Oh, and sorry about the socks. (At least they werern't black) I had my wife take the picture so I could see the length and wasn't thinking about posting them.

**sydnie7** · 20th November 12, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by plaid preacher

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking too. I was thinking about just turning over the top and sewing it over ... doing away with the waist strip that normally would hide the raw edge. Any thoughts?

Also anyone able to take a picture of the reverse pleat and under apron? That bit of the instruction just isn't making sense to me. I think I have it right, but just need some confirmation.

Hope this helps, only one I have.

Camo XKilt reverse pleat and under apron

**plaid preacher** · 20th November 12, 09:10 AM

Yes, that does, thank you. That I think looks like what I have ...once I get it pressed into place. (I think that is one of the elements that is hanging below the apron in my photos and may be giving the impression of length Can I ask how large is the inner pleat in between the apron pleat and pleat # 1? (In your photo it is the pleat that is standing almost vertical from the table at the hem)

**sydnie7** · 20th November 12, 09:45 AM

I don't have the kilt itself handy to measure, so I'll try it with words.

You can just barely see the chalk line for pleat #1 (on the right side of photo). From that chalk line to the edge of the under apron is the reverse pleat. Align the left edge of the underapron with the chalk line and you have formed the reverse pleat. It is whatever width you make it. . . I think Alan gave some numbers earlier based on your apron width.

Yes, that edge will tend to hang down if you have tapered the edge of your apron. But you don't need to taper your under apron, just the outer apron. And there are tricks to keep the pleat from hanging below the hem of outer apron -- easiest being to just increase the amount of hem at the fold of the pleat, which is exactly how it's done on a traditional kilt!

**plaid preacher** · 20th November 12, 10:09 AM

Thanks Sydnie. What confused me, I guess was that the inner apron pleat does not extend across the entire apron (at either the top or the bottom). But it doesn't seem that yours does either.

easiest being to just increase the amount of hem at the fold of the pleat, which is exactly how it's done on a traditional kilt!

Does this mean that the inner fold of Pleat # 1 is tapered?

**sydnie7** · 20th November 12, 10:22 AM

If you taper the edges of your top apron (A-shaped with waist edge narrower than hem edge), then make straight folds for the first pleat, rules of geometry mean that the hem edge of that first pleat will not be parallel to the hem of the top apron. It will droop and show. There are ways around this (Pleater likes to just "pull the top edge up a bit" as she sews the waistband on), but Barb T shows and explains the traditional fix in this wonderful thread. The Wizard chimes in at post #8 with comments about accomplishing this in a non-trad fabric.

And no, the inner apron pleat is not the full width of the apron, no worries there!

**keltic** · 11th January 13, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by sydnie7

Hope this helps, only one I have.

Camo XKilt reverse pleat and under apron

posting here because this answers a question and shows me how it should look. thanks for sharing!

**The Wizard of BC** · 11th January 13, 07:00 PM

From a kiltmaker's perspective may I interject.

The myth that when kneeling, a kilt should reach the floor, is myth. It is actually a kiltmakers trick used when measuring.

When measuring for a Traditionally made and worn kilt the kiltmaker knows that they will have two inches of rise above the top strap. The top strap is cinched into the natural waist and this can be found easily. (It is just under the ribs and about kidney level.)

So kiltmakers of old would have the person kneel on the floor. They would measure from the natural waist down to the floor. That measurement would be used for the total length of the kilt.

But when the kilt was actually made the straps are two inches lower than the top of the kilt raising it two inches.

So, if the kilt was made using the kneeling method and the person puts on the finished kilt, the hem is now raised two inches off the floor.

With a modern kilt you can have the hem hit where ever you are comfortable. This kneeling thing only applied to traditional kilts, and is just a kiltmaker trick used to get a measurement that would insure the hem hitting the top of the knee cap.