Fringe on your apron or no fringe?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Why do some kilts have fringe and others not? Where did the practice of a fringed apron come from?

The original tailored kilts had a lot fewer features than we are used to. The earliest examples had aprons with a self-fringe. These aprons were not tapered or shaped at all. The fabric was simply cut (or ripped) in a straight line and allowed to fringe. After about half an inch or so had fringed, the tightness of the weave would generally prevent any more fringing. Here is a photo of the earliest known surviving tailored kilt, a regimental Gordon Highlanders kilt c. 1796.

(photo courtesy Bob Martin).
Note this is a box pleated kilt containing less than 4 yards of cloth.

But from almost the same time we have examples of kilts with a non-fringed apron, as well. This MacDuff kilt was in the collection of the Scottish Tartans Museum in NC for a long while and was finally returned to the Scottish Tartans Authority in Crieff last year. It dates from somewhere c. 1800, and is also a four yard box pleated kilt, but this one of civilian origin.


Both the inner and outer apron edges are finished with a small hem, though neither is shaped or tapered at all.


By the time you get into the early nineteenth century, most all kilts being made had a finished apron edge of some sort (though not always tapered). But the norm seemed to be non-fringed. I have not made an intentional study of the matter, but I cannot recall seeing any nineteenth century kilt personally that had a fringed apron. Looking through the photographs of early kilts in Bob Martin's All About Your Kilt, the only nineteenth century kilt where a fringed apron can be seen is a Cameron kilt, c. 1860, for the 7th NY Cameron Highlanders. Keep in mind these kilts were made by New York City dressmakers, not Scottish kilt makers, and so have many design features not normally seen on Scottish kilts of that era.

So I would imagine that fringed aprons are a twentieth century introduction. And they are seen only on civilian kilts. Military kilts (whether knife pleated or box pleated makes no difference) do not have fringed aprons.* However, they have become the norm on civilian kilts, so much so that many kilt wearers don't even realize it is an option. Most kilt makers don't even ask their clients if they have a preference, and if they do it is likely to be "do you want a double fringe or a triple fringe?" not "do you want a fringe or not?"

*The only exception to the military kilts not having fringed aprons that I am aware of would be the hodden grey kilts of the London Scottish (and Toronto Scottish) which feature a solid blue fringe.

A fringed apron is purely decorative and serves no purpose other than to add a bit of visual interest. If you like it, fine. If you don't like it, that's fine, too.

For my own kilt making practices, I try to model what I do on nineteenth century styles as much as possible. For that reason my standard practice is not to fringe the aprons. But if a client requests it, I will happily make an apron with a single fringe. Double and triple fringes are very much twentieth century introductions and just not what I'm about (though nothing wrong with them if you like them).

I own kilts of both varieties and wear them both. There is no distinction in my mind as far as formal or casual wear, just whatever I felt like when I made the kilt. If I had a preference at all, I would have to say it was slightly for a non-fringed apron.

Here are some examples of kilts I have made where you can clearly see the apron edge.












Here's one I made for a client who wanted an early style philabeg with a straight, self-fringed apron.