Evening dress jacket for "stouter" gents

[IrishSean]

I am sorry to hear that you don't think a waistcoat works well with an open Balmoral. I will give that further consideration. Have you tried a variety of your lovely waistcoats (the tartan, 3-button barathea and 5-button barathea)?

Indeed, this raises a related issue--what is the better waistcoat for us fuller men? I love the bias-cut tartan look and am having one made at this time. But black is said to be more slimming than a color which draws attention to the midsection. And, amongst black barathea versions (or bias-cut, for that matter), does the three button or five button work better for our ilk?

Back to the doublet issue, at this time I think I am torn between the Balmoral and a Regulation doublet. In all likelihood I would not choose velvet for either. I like the look in everyone's Balmoral (Nathan, PlaidPreacher, and Rothesay) but warmth seems to be a factor and velvet may exceed my elegance threshold ("A man's got to know his limitations.")

Thanks to all for your input. Given the dearth of highland clothiers in the Washington, DC area, your comments are invaluable.

[Calgacus]

I have always thought that the black barathea Argyll with a 5 button waistcoat suits a stouter figure well.
It may not be what you are looking for however, so if it's a doublet you are after, I'd agree that the Balmoral and Regulation types work very well.

[creagdhubh]

.. or the balmoral doublet which is pictured under the wedding section. I recently purchased one on ebay and quite like it. It has a closed front, so no need for a vest; although it could be warm in summer, especially mine which is velvet. Here is a photo.

Gorgeous doublet! Well done indeed.

[creagdhubh]

I am sorry to hear that you don't think a waistcoat works well with an open Balmoral. I will give that further consideration. Have you tried a variety of your lovely waistcoats (the tartan, 3-button barathea and 5-button barathea)?

Indeed, this raises a related issue--what is the better waistcoat for us fuller men? I love the bias-cut tartan look and am having one made at this time. But black is said to be more slimming than a color which draws attention to the midsection. And, amongst black barathea versions (or bias-cut, for that matter), does the three button or five button work better for our ilk?

Back to the doublet issue, at this time I think I am torn between the Balmoral and a Regulation doublet. In all likelihood I would not choose velvet for either. I like the look in everyone's Balmoral (Nathan, PlaidPreacher, and Rothesay) but warmth seems to be a factor and velvet may exceed my elegance threshold ("A man's got to know his limitations.")

Thanks to all for your input. Given the dearth of highland clothiers in the Washington, DC area, your comments are invaluable.

Ever since I first saw my Chief, Sir William Alan Macpherson of Cluny and Blairgowrie, TD wearing his Regulation Doublet, I too have been an avid wearer of this style of doublet for various black/white tie affairs where Highland Dress is worn. The Regulation Doublet is actually a rather popular choice for many men of the Clan Macpherson. Cluny's son, Jamie Brodie Macpherson can be seen wearing his at our clan's annual ball at the Duke of Gordon Hotel in Kingussie, Inverness-shire, Scotland.

I recently sold one that was made by Kinloch Anderson (in 15oz black Barathea wool) to a fellow member of the rabble. Even though there was absolutely nothing wrong with the doublet and matching waistcoat (it was practically in brand new condition), I found myself not wearing it as often as I'd like simply because I opted to have one made of black velvet in place of black barathea; I prefer the look of velvet (isn't it funny how your sartorial tastes evolve and change over time?). Thus, I now wear a Regulation Doublet with a matching waistcoat in black velvet from Kinloch Anderson. I also have a waistcoat in scarlet velvet, which sets off the doublet and the Macpherson Dress (Wilson's colours with scarlet stripes; not the more commonly seen purple stripes) tartan quite well. I have also altered the front button placement and size on the new Regulation Doublet in black velvet. My old doublet had large silver buttons attached diagonally on the front, which came standard from Kinloch Anderson. For the new doublet, I opted to have only three, smaller sized buttons in silver affixed to the bottom right hand side with corresponding buttonholes on the left, though I will never button the doublet.

I definitely recommend the Regulation Doublet for gentlemen of almost any size and build; it can be a very forgiving garment indeed. However, I absolutely love the Balmoral Doublet too (I have always admired the Duke of Rothesay's), but I am just too fond of wearing a waistcoat with my Highland evening attire. Whether it's made of coloured velvet, tartan (cut on the bias), or black to match the doublet, I like them all! The variety allows me to change the overall look when I see fit and I really enjoy that versatility.

Bruce Macpherson of London


Cluny and yours truly


Tom Macpherson of Newtonmore (in the foreground and slightly off center)


Cluny's son and next in line to be Chief of the Clan Macpherson by tanistry, Jamie Brodie Macpherson (far right)

[Nathan]

I am sorry to hear that you don't think a waistcoat works well with an open Balmoral. I will give that further consideration. Have you tried a variety of your lovely waistcoats (the tartan, 3-button barathea and 5-button barathea)?

Yes, I tried them all. Don't remember them looking quite right. Perhaps I'll try again and snap a photo or two. As I understand it a 3 button waistcoat is more appropriate for eveningwear (Sherriffmuir 7 button excluded).

[Liam]

I have always thought that the black barathea Argyll with a 5 button waistcoat suits a stouter figure well.

My thoughts exactly.

[OC Richard]

Nowadays when Prince Charlies are ubiquitous and very often seen worn by older stout men it may come as a surprise that when "Coatees" begin appearing in Highland Dress catalogues in the early 20th century they were specified as being primarily suitable for younger men. (Older men presumably would wear the older style, the "Doublet", which we today call the Regulation Doublet.)

As a rather fat person myself (I don't know if a 6'4" person can be called 'stout') I've found that the Argyll is the most flattering style, especially if worn buttoned. Yes I know it's supposed to be worn open with a waistcoat, but the most slimming thing is to wear the Argyll without waistcoat or belt underneath (which add bulk), and buttoned.

I've also found that wearing a Prince Charlie is more flattering if I lay aside the waistcoat and wear the wide piper's belt & buckle instead.

[IrishSean]

A Prince Charlie without the waistcoat--that's a option I never considered. Do you have a photo, Richard?

[OC Richard]

No Sean I don't, of me anyhow. This thread has some photos of gents wearing Regulation Doublets without waistcoats, and the effect would be similar.

As a piper who lives in a warm-weather place I try to look smart while keeping as cool as I can. Laying aside waistcoats helps! I feel underdressed when I perform on the pipes without a jacket, though most pipe bands the world over have gone over to the waistcoat-sans-jacket look.

[mac]

I personally can't be doing with the prince charlie jacket - its just too prissy/waiter like.
Instead i got an Argyll Jacket in plain black with the silver buttons.

It's not meant to be worn 'done up' so is fine for all tummys!

mac