Evening dress jacket for "stouter" gents

[IrishSean]

I was looking at an old Wm Anderson catalogue that was posted on here awhile ago. http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...talogue-74888/

It said that, for evening wear, "the style of coat chosen requires most careful consideration. It depends on the figure of the wearer, the purposes for which the coat is required, and other considerations. The Coatee is specially suitable for a young man or an older man of slim figure. It is definitely less suitable for the stouter figure....The Doublet is less popular than it once was, but is suitable particularly for older men."

When I face reality, I recognize that I am no longer a young man and that my figure has always been closer to stout than slim. Yet, I am unsure that a doublet would be particularly flattering. The catalogue shows a Regulation (with low-cut waistcoat) and a Kenmore doublet.


Does anyone have any experience or suggestions?

[Chas]

The Sheriffmuir is very forgiving for those of us who wear our chests lower ...

[Jock Scot]

The Sheriffmuir is very forgiving for those of us who wear our chests lower ...

Sage words there Chas.

[plaid preacher]

.. or the balmoral doublet which is pictured under the wedding section. I recently purchased one on ebay and quite like it. It has a closed front, so no need for a vest; although it could be warm in summer, especially mine which is velvet. Here is a photo.

[Nathan]

.. or the balmoral doublet which is pictured under the wedding section. I recently purchased one on ebay and quite like it. It has a closed front, so no need for a vest; although it could be warm in summer, especially mine which is velvet. Here is a photo.

I love my Balmoral doublet, but it's a close fitting jacket and if I gained 10 - 15 lbs I may have trouble buttoning it. For someone whose waistline might expand the PC or the Sherrifmuir are the best options. Notwithstanding what Anderson said about the PC in the early 20th, the fact that the jacket isn't meant to button means that you have more room to grow before you have to have it replaced. Especially with a generous and adjustable waistcoat.

[plaid preacher]

Good point, Nathan. I have the advantage of being on the loosing side of the battle of the bulge. But I am guardedly optimistic and I will be able to hold this last bit of ground and not suffer another defeat. :-)

[IrishSean]

I do like the look of the Balmoral. As for Nathan's point, I have read that the Balmoral can be worn open (unbuttoned). Does that give a little more room for "growth"?

[Nathan]

I do like the look of the Balmoral. As for Nathan's point, I have read that the Balmoral can be worn open (unbuttoned). Does that give a little more room for "growth"?

It is typically worn closed for very formal events demonstrated in plaid preacher's post. Here's mine closed.

AGM_Final_sm.jpg

AGM_Milnes.jpg

For a less formal look, it can be worn open as I did at a recent Burns supper:

At Burns Dinner.jpg

St. Andrew's Burns Night 2014.jpg

In my view, if you wanted to wear it open all the time, you'd be better off with a sherriffmuir because it has nice symmetry with the buttons down both sides of the doublet.

You would have a little more room to grow with the Balmoral open, but it doesn't really call for a waistcoat so it wouldn't be the most flattering option for a stout build in my view. But chacun a son gout.

[IrishSean]

Yes, that's the look that I meant! The open Balmoral is more to my taste than the sherriffmuir, for two reasons.

First, by being open at the neck, the Balmoral lends itself better to a black bowtie and turn down collar while the sherriffmuir seems limited to a jabot.

Second, the sherriffmuir opens outward as it approaches the waist which I suspect would emphasize any stomach protrusion. (Something like this-- http://images.ookaboo.com/photo/s/Cut_away_s.jpg )

Nathan, you make a good point about a waistcoat being flattering to those of us who are larger. But in your photos the open Balmoral looks similar to a regulation doublet (with a little less "bling"). As such, a waistcoat might look perfectly fine.

And, of course, when I am in my best shape, the Balmoral can be worn closed like the Duke of Rothesay.

[Nathan]

I see your point about a lay down collar and bow tie but I've tried a waistcoat on with my Balmoral and haven't been a fan of the look so far. If you find a waistcoat that works, I'd love to see photos.

I agree with the A shape of the Sherriffmuir can accentuate a portly build. The Regulation doublet has peaked lapels which create a V shape for the wearer, so that's worth considering.

In any case, I really like my Balmoral and so I can't question your taste. If you like the look, wear it in good health!