Wrapping the Braveheart kilt

[Calgacus]

Thanks Richard, I didn't know the text that went with that depiction, that's very interesting.

I'd also be happy to see any depictions you have gathered of highland or more generally Scottish dress from these early periods.

[IsaacW]

A quick note on the history of "matchcoats"... the matchcoat and that type of use shown in the Wilde Weavery website, is generally regarded as a bit anachronistic. Of documents listing matchcoats as well as extant American Indian matchcoats, they tend to be larger and of thinner fabric than the heavy blanketing shown by Wilde and worn by many reenactors (popularized in the 1980-90s by Mark Baker and others). Additionally, although belting the matchcoat is seen fairly often, it seems to be VERY rarely pinned at the top. Actually, historical references tend to speak against this practice, and I can only think of one image (of hundreds) that show this being done. This image (which could be artistic fancy) is below and is from the 1730s (French) and is at the Bienecke Rare Books Collection at Yale.

[IsaacW]

I should add... that although this may be historically anachronistic, I do find it to be very useful and handy. I have been known to use a blanket like this in the past (historical before I knew better and since for modern stuff).

[Benning Boy]

I find the dimension of the great kilt interesting to wonder about, but only so-so. Also, I'm firmly in the match coat cap when it comes to the wearing of one. However, what bothers me the most is the idea that something said to be made of cloth the same weight as used in modern kilts was used for both shelter and a blanket. I just can't see it. I've a lot of experience sleeping outdoors on cold wet nights, even down to 20 or 30 degrees below zero F. If all I had was a double thickness of 16 ounce tartan to wrap in I'd use it, but experience has taught me that at some point during the night I'd freeze my off. Even a double layer of wool army blankets isn't enough to keep you warm once the temps go below freezing.

As a shelter, a double width of tartan cloth might be pitched as a lean-to to block wind and partially keep the rain or drizzle off, but it's going to become soggy, and who wants to put on cold wet clothes first thing on a cold damp windy day?


I know it sounds cool, that ye olde higlanders would use there woolen wrappers for shelter and bedding. But based on my own experience, I just can't get my head around it. I just can't imagine anything used for clothing, shelter and beding being any lighter than a blanket.


By the way, Wilde Weavery was know for producing the warmest wool blankets available. They cater to the reenactor trade. And a Wild blanket was considered the ultimate piece of gear. I'f I were going to live in a great kilt world, I'd try to get a Wilde blanket for starters.


Oh! Just one more thought. Would the wool used in a great kilt have been made of wool that had the lanolin removed, like modern kilting fabric, or would it have been made of raw wool with the lanolin left in? That would make a lot of difference in its worth as outdoor shelter and bedding.

Finally, just wondering, has any off this informed the decision on how to costume the Scots in the production of McBeth.

[jhockin]

Re: the "Belted Plaid":
From: http://www.electricscotland.com/hist...dsketches5.htm

"... they love chiefly purple and blue; their predecessors used short mantles, or plaids of divers colours, sundrie ways divided, and among some the same custom is observed to this day; but, for the most part now, they are brown, most near to the colour of the hadder, to the effect when they lye among the hadders, the bright colour of their plaids shall not bewray them, with the which rather coloured than clad, they suffer the most cruel tempests that blow in the open fields, in such sort, that in a night of snow they sleep sound."

" The belted plaid, which was generally double, or in two folds, formed, when let down so as to envelop the whole person, a shelter from the storm, and a covering in which the wearer wrapt himself up in full security, when he lay down fearlessly among the heather. This, if benighted in his hunting excursions, or on a distant visit, he by no means considered it a hardship; nay, so little was he disturbed by the petty miseries which many feel from inclement weather, that, in storms of snow, frost, or wind, he would dip the plaid in water, and, wrapping himself up in it when moistened, lie down on the heath. The plaid thus swelled with moisture was supposed to resist the wind, so that the exhalation from the body."

.. Seems to me that he is saying that the cloth was folded in half (i.e.: fold the Length in half, then wrap in it. ). There is also a painting of a clan piper ( which I can't find right now) that seems to show two edges, at the edge of the over apron, which would support this idea.

(Found an image of the painting; grant piper - notice, on his right side, how a fold clearly shows the fabric doubled?)
image.jpg
.. Just saying ....

[Dughlas mor]

I`m fascinated by the discussion. It occurs to me that these ancient highlanders had homes, and I doubt they sought out opportunities to wrap themselves in their great kilts and sleep on the ground in sub freezing conditions. I believe cattle, for the most part, were worked from spring through fall. They were hardy souls, no doubt, but even hardy souls will die of exposure at some point. I`m sure they new the limits of their gear, and I would think that the great kilt would be, at most, the equivalent of a modern three season sleeping bag. I have slept in such at about -20F, and it wasn`t a very good sleep.

[Calgacus]

I`m fascinated by the discussion. It occurs to me that these ancient highlanders had homes, and I doubt they sought out opportunities to wrap themselves in their great kilts and sleep on the ground in sub freezing conditions. I believe cattle, for the most part, were worked from spring through fall. They were hardy souls, no doubt, but even hardy souls will die of exposure at some point. I`m sure they new the limits of their gear, and I would think that the great kilt would be, at most, the equivalent of a modern three season sleeping bag. I have slept in such at about -20F, and it wasn`t a very good sleep.

They did have homes, though they were very basic by modern standards. In winter, they lived in houses in the lower glens and tended their crops. Their cattle lived inside the house with them for mutual warmth, sectioned off at one end of the house. Here's a photo from inside one of these houses, now a museum-

normal_Blackhouse 2 Interior 2.JPG

In summer, they drove their cattle up into pastures called 'sheilings' high in the hills. There, they lived in huts called 'bothies' which may or may not have had stone walls, some being made of branches and covered with turf and heather, and shaped either like beehives or tepees.

The times when they would have had to sleep out of doors include travel, when herding the cattle in summer (the word for a herdsman is 'buachaille'), when droving cattle, which took place in the autumn (fall) and involved travelling from the Highlands to the lowlands, or even into England, buying cattle in ones and twos as you went, then selling them in the lowland markets at Creiff and Falkirk, or in England. Finally, they would have slept out of doors when reiving (cattle rustling) or when campaigning in battle. There as a campaigning 'season' which ran from roughly some time in April to some time in September, however they did fight outwith that season, as attested to by battles such as Culloden.

Here are a couple of excerpts which give a flavour-

"The garb is certainly very loose, and fits men inured to it to go through great marches, to bear out against the inclemency of' the weather, to wade through rivers, to shelter in huts, woods, and rocks, on occasions when men dressed in the low country garb could not endure. And it is to be considered, that, as the Highlanders are circumstanced at present, it is, at least it seems to me to be, an utter impossibility, without the advantage of this dress, for the inhabitants to tend their cattle, and go through the other parts of their business, without which they could not subsist, not to speak of paying rents to their landlords."


One from before 1597-

"They delight in marbled cloths,especially that have long stripes of sundrie colours; they lovechiefly purple and blue ; their predecessors used short mantles, orplaids of divers colours, sundrie ways divided, and among some thesame custom is observed to this day ; but, for the most part now,they are brown, most near to the colour of the hadder (heather), tothe effect when they lye among the hadders, the bright colour oftheir plaids shall not betray them, with the which, rather colouredthan clad, they suffer the most cruel tempests that blow in theopen fields, in such sort, that in a night of snow they sleepsound."


From 1822, pieced together from a number of older sources?-

"The point of personal decoration once secured, it mattered not to the Highlander that his dwelling was mean, his domestic utensils scanty and of the simplest construction, and his house and furniture merely such as could be prepared by his own hands. He was his own cooper, carpenter, and shoemaker, while his wife improved the value of his dress by her care and pride in preparing the materials. To be his own tailor or weaver he thought beneath him; these occupations were left to such as, from deficiency in strength, courage, or natural ability, were disqualified for the field or the chace.
One part of the Highland habit consisted of truis. These were both breeches and stockings in one piece, were made to fit perfectly close to the limbs, and were worn principally by gentlemen on horseback. The waistcoat and short coat were adorned with silver buttons, tassels, embroidery, or lace, according to the fashion of the times. But the arrangements of the belted plaid were of greatest importance in the toilet of a Highlandman of fashion. This was a piece of tartan two yards in breadth, and four in length, which surrounded the waist in large plaits, or folds, adjusted with great nicety, and confined by a belt, buckled tight round the body. While the lower part came down to the knees, the other was drawn up and adjusted to the left shoulder, leaving the right arm uncovered, and at full liberty.

In wet weather, the plaid was thrown loose, and covered both shoulders and body; and when the use of both arms was required, it was fastened across the breast by a large silver bodkin, or circular brooch, often enriched with precious stones, or imitations of them, having mottos engraved, consisting of allegorical and figurative sentences. These were also employed to fix the plaid on the left shoulder. A large purse of goat's or badger's skin, answering the purpose of a pocket, and ornamented with a silver or brass mouth-piece, and many tassels, hung before. A dirk, with a knife and fork stuck in the side of the sheath, and sometimes a spoon, together with a pair of steel pistols, were essential accompaniments. The bonnet, which gentlemen generally wore with one or more feathers, completed the national garb.

The dress of the common people differed only in the deficiency of finer or brighter colours, and of silver ornaments, being otherwise essentially the same; a tuft of heather, pine, holly, or oak, supplying the place of feathers in the bonnet. The garters were broad, and of rich colours, wrought in a small primitive kind of loom, the use of which is now little known, and formed a close texture, which was not liable to wrinkle, but which kept the pattern in full display, f The silver buttons were frequently found among the better and more provident of the lower ranks,-an inheritance often of long descent. The belted plaid, which was generally double, or in two folds, formed, when let down so as to envelope the whole person, a shelter from the storm, and a covering in which the wearer wrapt himself up in full security, when he lay down fearlessly among the heather. This, if benighted in his hunting ,excursions, or on a distant visit, he by no means considered a hardship; nay, so little was he disturbed by the petty miseries which others feel from inclement weather, that, in storms of snow, frost, or wind, he would dip the plaid in water, and, wrapping himself up in it when moistened, lie down on the heath. The plaid thus swelled with moisture was supposed to resist the wind, so that the exhalation from the body during sleep might surround the wearer with an atmosphere of warm vapour.

On dyeing and and arranging the various colours of their tartans, they displayed no small art and taste, preserving at the same time the distinctive patterns (or sets, as they were called) of the different clans, tribes, families, and districts. Thus a Macdonald, a Campbell, a Mackenzie, &c. was known by his plaid and in like manner the Athole, Glenorchy and other colours of different districts, were easily distinguishable. Besides those general divisions, industrious housewives had patterns, distinguished by the set, superior quality, and fineness of cloth, or brightness and variety of the colours. In those times when mutual attachment and confidence subsisted between the proprietors and occupiers of land in the Highlands, the removal of tenants, except in remarkable cases, rarely occurred, and consequently it was easy to preserve and perpetuate any particular set or pattern, even among the lower orders."



From 1878, but informative none the less-

"The life of a Highland poacher is a far different one from that of an Englishman following the same profession. Instead of a sneaking night-walking ruffian, a mixture of cowardice and ferocity, as most English poachers are, and ready to commit any crime that he hopes to perpetrate with impunity, the Highlander is a bold fearless fellow, shooting openly by daylight, taking his sport in the same manner as the Laird, or the Sassenach who rents the ground. He never snares or wires game, but depends on his dog and gun. Hardy and active as the deer of the mountain, in company with two or three comrades of the same stamp as himself, he sleeps in the heather wrapped in his plaid, regardless of frost or snow, and commences his work at daybreak. When a party of them sleep out on the hill side, their manner of arranging their couch is as follows:—If snow is on the ground, they first scrape it off a small space; they then all collect a quantity of the driest heather they can find. The next step is for all the party excepting one to lie down close to each other, with room between one couple for the remaining man to get into the rank when his duty is done, which is to lay all the plaids on the top of his companions, and on the plaids a quantity of long heather; when he has sufficiently thatched them in, he creeps into the vacant place, and they are made up for the night. The coldest frost has no effect on them when bivouacking in this manner. Their guns are laid dry between them, and their dogs share their masters' couch."

[Calgacus]

Re: the "Belted Plaid":
From: http://www.electricscotland.com/hist...dsketches5.htm

"... they love chiefly purple and blue; their predecessors used short mantles, or plaids of divers colours, sundrie ways divided, and among some the same custom is observed to this day; but, for the most part now, they are brown, most near to the colour of the hadder, to the effect when they lye among the hadders, the bright colour of their plaids shall not bewray them, with the which rather coloured than clad, they suffer the most cruel tempests that blow in the open fields, in such sort, that in a night of snow they sleep sound."

" The belted plaid, which was generally double, or in two folds, formed, when let down so as to envelop the whole person, a shelter from the storm, and a covering in which the wearer wrapt himself up in full security, when he lay down fearlessly among the heather. This, if benighted in his hunting excursions, or on a distant visit, he by no means considered it a hardship; nay, so little was he disturbed by the petty miseries which many feel from inclement weather, that, in storms of snow, frost, or wind, he would dip the plaid in water, and, wrapping himself up in it when moistened, lie down on the heath. The plaid thus swelled with moisture was supposed to resist the wind, so that the exhalation from the body."

.. Seems to me that he is saying that the cloth was folded in half (i.e.: fold the Length in half, then wrap in it. ). There is also a painting of a clan piper ( which I can't find right now) that seems to show two edges, at the edge of the over apron, which would support this idea.

(Found an image of the painting; grant piper - notice, on his right side, how a fold clearly shows the fabric doubled?)
image.jpg
.. Just saying ....

Aha! My goodness, I can't believe I've not spotted this before, thank you so much!

The reason I say that is I believe that at least some belted plaids were worn with the cloth first doubled. I even brought up the possibility in a thread last year, though the idea was rather dismissed. I came to the conclusion after reading this article:-

http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/A_H..._MacGregor.pdf

It seems to me that the only way this particular garment makes sense is if it were folded in half first. I realise this is a revival plaid, but I hope my argument stands.

I also happened to stumble over the same article last night that you have just posted and also wondered if this description was saying the same thing.

There is also a practical reason for folding the cloth in half first. This provides you with two layers of cloth over your upper body when it is worn as a cloak in bad weather, whereas the other method does not. In practice, I have found that on a typical Scottish wet day, the rain can saturate and penetrate one layer of woolen cloth, but not two. The lower layer gets a bit wet, sure, but most of the water is channeled off by the top layer, a bit like a double-skinned tent.

So, if the plaid were first folded in half, this means that the garment was now only 2-3 yards by 2 yards in size. Fold half a dozen pleats, slip a belt under, and strap it on. Not so hard really?

I shall post my original thread on this subject if I can find it.

*Edit* Here it is:-

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...g-plaid-80544/

[The Wizard of BC]

If we go back to the original posters original question.

Kilts made for the stage and screen often use what we in the kilt world call "the false plaid". It is actually made from two different pieces of cloth.

Here is just one example of a false plaid.
On the bottom is a normal kilt.
Then there is a second piece shaped like a triangle with a separate waistband.
This second piece is fastened around the waist and the end brought up to the shoulder and fastened with a pin.



This is a very cost effective way to give the look of an older kilt. You only need a regular kilt and another piece of additional fabric, something for a waistband and some velcro.

[creagdhubh]

Very intriguing discussion!