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  1. #1
    Join Date
    17th June 15
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
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    I've opted to just go with a square apron, now that I see that's common. and it's only 10" anyhow.

    at first I was sure I was mistaking which side he was talking about, but I'm pretty sure the right side is the open side(where one might attach buckles or straps to close it), and the left side is the side that butts up against the pleats.

    I'm pretty much done with the complicated parts of the kilt I'm working on, and this was the last thing that was hanging me up.

    Just for reference, and to see if anyone else knows what he's talking about, here's the passage out of the manual:
    (everything below here is copied and pasted)

    Sewing Down the Over-Apron Edges

    Find the A-Shaping chalk line you drew for the right hand edge of the over-apron. “Right hand edge” this time refers to “right” as you’re looking at the kilt on the table, the hem/selvedge towards you. Make SURE that you’ve got the AShaping line, and not the square, measuring line! Fold that over from the hem all the way up to the waistband in a straight line and pin it. Don’t stop at the fell, go all the way to the waistband on this one. Now stitch that puppy down. Are you going to run two lines of stitching on the edges of your over-apron? I recommend it. If so, you should match that with two lines of stitching on the left side, too, BUT WAIT TO DO THIS UNTIL LATER, when you attach the over-apron strip. Go ahead and put two lines of stitching on the right side now, if you want. Make ‘em about a quarter of an inch apart. I recommend two lines of stitching anyway; it tends to stiffen up the edges of the apron and that’s a good thing, especially if you’re working with cotton/poly twill.
    Be sure you’re pinning/stitching along the A-SHAPING chalk lines you put in and the kilt is facing up, outside of kilt facing you, hem/selvedge towards you. If it’s not like this then all my right-left instructions in the above paragraph will be backwards!!
    Move over to the left-hand edge of the over-apron and fold over the left hand edge, following the A-SHAPING LINE. Fold it under twice so that the raw edge is buried. This will leave a substantial flap of material folded in towards the center of the apron. That’s good, it helps stiffen up the apron a bit. It’ll be narrower at the bottom than at the top because of the A-Shaping. No worries.
    OK, so pin down that folded-over edge and stitch it down about a quarter of an inch from the edge, matching the stitching pattern you used on the other edge of the apron but ONLY DO ONE LINE OF STITCHING FOR NOW. You should have at least an inch of extra material extending beyond the hem line, towards the middle of the over-apron, on the inside.
    Now you’ve got your over-apron!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    27th April 13
    Location
    Vancouver, Wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by eahuntley View Post
    I've opted to just go with a square apron, now that I see that's common. and it's only 10" anyhow.

    at first I was sure I was mistaking which side he was talking about, but I'm pretty sure the right side is the open side(where one might attach buckles or straps to close it), and the left side is the side that butts up against the pleats.
    Remember that the manual has the fabric oriented with the hem facing towards you. The left hand edge of the apron while you've got the fabric on the table is actually the right hand edge of the apron when you eventually put the kilt on.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    17th June 15
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
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    Ahh, OK. That's the part I got turned around. It all makes sense now. Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    17th June 15
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
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    Turns out I made another pretty big mistake that contributed to the confusion. Somehow I managed to put my over apron on the wrong side. I'm not even sure how I managed that. I've worn formal kilts before, so I would have thought I'd have noticed it while trying it on..

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