Tartan price comparison - Wilsons' and today

[Orvis]

Thanks so much Orvis for that information!

I can see the parallels with the Navy in Jack Aubrey's day (early 19th century).

The separate contracting of uniform manufacture explains all the little features unique to each regiment.

And the Captains owning the Companies explains the old system of Company Pipers, who were not on the official establishment, but paid for by the officers, and dressed in a variety of ways (some in the ordinary regimental uniform, some in elaborate livery).

Pipers weren't on the official regimental establishment, paid by the Crown, until the mid-19th century.

OC Richard,

The British Navy was on a completely different "economy" setup than the Army. For example, there was no purchase of commissions for officers. Officers were the only uniformed men in the Navy, and thus purchased their own uniforms. Enlisted sailors had no uniform (except for the crews of the captain's or admiral's barges, who were uniformed at the expense of the officers), but did get "slops" from the ship to replace worn-out clothing, which resulted in a charge against their pay. Also, in the Navy (as far as I know), food was not charged against the sailors' pay, and officers mostly paid for their own food.

With regard to the Army system of proprietary Colonels, that did explain the differences in regimental uniforms. However, the Army's Board of General Officers had to approve of each regiment's uniforms, and there was much that they rejected. In the 1740's, for example, the Colonels were forbidden to put their personal coat of arms or crest on the Colours, and they were also forbidden to dress drummers (and later fifers, when authorized) in their personal livery. Musicians uniforms and Colors were regulated.

As to pipers in the Army, before the early 1850's, Scottish regiments (including Highland ones) were only allowed one piper on the official establishment (i.e., that the government would pay for). Any other pipers were hired by the officers and, in order to cut costs, sometimes they were deceptively enlisted as drummers or private soldiers. In their playing, they functioned rather like the clan chief's piper - for his and his guests pleasure, possibly on the march, and in battle. Pipers were not organized as battalion pipe bands until the 1850's, when the Army authorized pipe bands and set up the official establishment of pipers in each regiment, when each company got a piper as a "field musician" (to serve along with a drummer), and the pipers and drummers played as a band on parade when the Commanding Officer so specified. I might add that during most of the 18th c., regimental bands (as opposed to field musicians) were completely unofficial and were paid for by the officers. Thus, being privately-hired entertainers, they could be dressed any way the CO wanted. It is my understanding that at one point in the 18th c., the 42nd Regt's (Black Watch) band was dressed in a Turkish mode. Only when the Army took over the organization of regimental bands did that change.

Peter, thanks for the 1779 information on Wilson's tartan cost to the Highland regiments. I was aware (from your book) of the various qualities of cloth for officers, serjeants and other ranks, but not the cost. The cost and quality of tartan goes along with the quality of other uniform items in Highland regiments - Officers had the finest (privately purchased), Serjeants had less fine cloth (but better quality than the Other Ranks), and the Corporals and Private Soldiers had the least quality. I have a couple of old books that describe the the history of the Strathspey Fencibles and the 97th Foot in the early 1790's. In the opening chapter of each book, pains are taken to describe the uniforms, and I was interested to learn that private soldiers only got three yards of tartan for philibegs, serjeants got four yards and officers as much as they cared to purchase. Quality of cloth for each group was not discussed. The Strathspey Fencibles were interesting, in that much of their regimentally owned equipment and clothing (such as grenadier caps) ended up stored at Castle Grant, where it is still available to researchers.

As to military plaids and philabegs not surviving, that is due to the fact that after the soldiers finished paying their Captains (and through him, the Colonel) for them, these uniform items (along with coats, shoes, etc) were theirs to dispose of as they pleased. Thus, the plaids were recycled into philabegs, and worn philabegs, coats and other bits were probably given to soldiers' dependents to make clothing from, or the soldiers (and possibly their dependants) sold old uniform items to civilians for cash. It is my understanding that 18th and early-19th c. Highland regiments were noted for their sobriety and good order, so I don't think they had a problem with soldiers pawning uniform items for drink until the national character of the Highland regiments was undermined by increasing numbers of Lowland, English, and Irish enlistees during the Napoleonic Wars.

[figheadair]

Peter, thanks for the 1779 information on Wilson's tartan cost to the Highland regiments. I was aware (from your book) of the various qualities of cloth for officers, serjeants and other ranks, but not the cost. The cost and quality of tartan goes along with the quality of other uniform items in Highland regiments - Officers had the finest (privately purchased), Serjeants had less fine cloth (but better quality than the Other Ranks), and the Corporals and Private Soldiers had the least quality. I have a couple of old books that describe the the history of the Strathspey Fencibles and the 97th Foot in the early 1790's. In the opening chapter of each book, pains are taken to describe the uniforms, and I was interested to learn that private soldiers only got three yards of tartan for philibegs, serjeants got four yards and officers as much as they cared to purchase. Quality of cloth for each group was not discussed. The Strathspey Fencibles were interesting, in that much of their regimentally owned equipment and clothing (such as grenadier caps) ended up stored at Castle Grant, where it is still available to researchers.

The 97th's knapsacks, weapons etc (the Seafield Collection) is now owned by the NTS and on display in Fort George. Interestingly, there is a photograph showing some of the preservation work of the knapsacks; in one was a piece of Government tartan. That makes it the oldest piece surviving piece I know of. The cloth appears to be Wilsons' (which I would expect) and I'm in the process of trying to track it down. No doubt it's in a store somewhere.

[Orvis]

The 97th's knapsacks, weapons etc (the Seafield Collection) is now owned by the NTS and on display in Fort George. Interestingly, there is a photograph showing some of the preservation work of the knapsacks; in one was a piece of Government tartan. That makes it the oldest piece surviving piece I know of. The cloth appears to be Wilsons' (which I would expect) and I'm in the process of trying to track it down. No doubt it's in a store somewhere.

Thanks for that additional information, Peter. I was at work when I typed my previous post and did not have access to my books, so thanks also for correcting the bit about which regiment's equipment was saved for modern display. Good luck in your search for that bit of Government tartan!