Question about the Rise

[The Wizard of BC]

Arnot,

In a traditional style kilt to be worn at the natural waist there will always be flare above the top strap. On a traditionally worn kilt the top strap cinches into the anatomical natural waist right under the ribs. Up at kidney level in the back and three or four finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone in front.

The flare is to allow the top of the kilt to fit up, over the ribs.

In Accordance with TAoK the flare is not outward. but straight up from the smallest width of the pleat taper. On a 3" rise kilt it should be straight up or very slightly wider than the smallest width of the pleat taper.
I usually duplicate the taper from the Fell above the strap.