Adjustments for ladies' kilts/kilt skirts apron/underapron sides

[Dollander]

Okay, based on numerous photographss of kilted skirts I've seen, and one in my possession, it would seem typical for the knife pleats to go in the same direction as on a men's kilt. So if the apron opens on the left instead of the right, the reverse pleat is at the edge of the outer apron. As for a deeper pleat on the other end, well, that's harder to discern from photos, and the inner apron edge on the PV mini kilt from Scotweb that I have is no deeper than the other pleats.

And like Steve said, they tend to be structured much more simply than actual kilts. So with less fabric, pleating to the sett is not typically an option. Here's a kilted skirt (or I suppose a cilted sgert, since it's a Welsh tartan ) that I made based on the above-mentioned mini kilt:



You can see the reverse pleat in the first pic. And while at first glance it may appear to be pleated to the sett, note on the apron how the red-striped burgundy band is bordered by the smaller red stripes while the blue-striped one is bordered by the smaller black bands, but it's the other way around on the pleated portion. I also had to add darts to the upper apron, since too much of the sett would've been lost if I'd just tapered the edges naturally; indeed, perhaps the greatest challenge in making kilts for women (or in my case, dolls*) is preserving the pattern on the fell with the more pronounced taper of a typical female form.





* In case you didn't figure it out already, my username is a portmanteau of "doll" and "Highlander".

[Michael A]

By "sits slightly forward", I mean that instead of curling around towards the back, a viewer from the front can see the outline of the apron, since the deep pleat opens up slightly especially when moving.

So from both responses, I gather that the deep pleat and inverted pleat must therefore be on the same side with respect to the apron as they are for a gent's kilt. That is, the entire construction of the kilt must be reversed, rather than just putting the buckle hole and fringe on opposite sides. Is that correct? Or does it not matter if the deep pleat stays on the left (the apron) and the inverted on the right (the underapron).

[Dollander]

Like I said, the ones I've seen tend to have the reverse pleat on the outer apron...so yes, as if the fringe and buckle hole were reversed but the basic design is otherwise the same. Of course, there's no hard-and-fast rules, and even less so with kilted skirts, so you could do it whichever way you find more aesthetically pleasing. Six in one hand, half a dozen in the other...

[The Wizard of BC]

It is the apron shaping which keeps the apron edges parallel to the pleats.
If shaped well the apron edges should drape naturally around the sides of the legs. The apron edges should hang straight down and not gape open.

On a skirt that opens on the left. There is no left side deep pleat. The underapron is the deep pleat. On the right the apron itself becomes the reverse and it does have a deep pleat.

[Lady Grey]

Blah to the Tartan Skirt info
She wants a short kilt.... make it traditionally - make a kilt!

-The knife pleats are great to swirl around in and show off fabric, fabric, fabric! Swish & Swagger!
(I like to wear leggings, short or long depending on weather, under my kilts They can be casual or dressed up depending on footwear)
-Box pleats aren't great for certain figures - be guided by her preferances.
-Make the apron closing on the right as is traditional - why bother changing what you're used to?
-Do look into the Kingussie pleat style ... as our waist - hip ratio is often more prounounced it is a helpful method for getting the fell looking nice
- Barb & Anne both have information on Kingussie & reverse Kingussie amongst their comments.
- Apron ... I can't help or offer advice as I'm useless at shaping and I've given up. I just use a straight edge.
- Yes to deep apron pleats... women tend to move and sit a little differently to men and the deep pleats are needed so we're not flashing.

If you get a chance (and permission) we'd love to see some pictures during fitting & construction?
I always find it really helpful to see how others work.

[Lady Grey]

Also...
Go on the hunt for fun, funky buckles. There are some great ones around and there's no rule that says you have to have plain ones.
It's a lovely feminine touch and looks great.
Also I've found that kilt pins aren't ususlly necessary on a short kilt. A cute brooch or similar is a fun touch but be careful it's not to heavy as it pulls everything skewiff

[Katia]

Blah to the Tartan Skirt info
She wants a short kilt.... make it traditionally - make a kilt!

This. Skirts don't move the same.

[Barb T]

For anyone interested, here's my post on a kilt for a woman that Lady Gray mention:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...t-woman-75461/