SLEEVE LENGTH: MONTROSE Vs THE REST!

[OC Richard]

It is interesting how, after nearly a century of making do with the Doublet and Argyll, both of which had open lapels, Highland Evening Dress suddenly introduced Evening Dress jackets with military-style "stand collars" in the decade immediately following the end of WWI.

BTW stand collars appeared in military uniform in the early 19th century; 18th century jackets, military and civilian alike, had open collars with lapels.

One wonders if the sudden appearance of stand collars in Highland Evening jackets in the 1920s was WWI military influence, or reaching back into 19th century costume.

It does run counter to a typical trend in men's civilian fashion: following a big war men's civilian fashion goes 180 degrees from military uniforms, and tends to be loose and comfortable. In long periods of peace men's civilian fashion sometimes gets a military flavour. Odd, that.

[Blaidd]

It is interesting how, after nearly a century of making do with the Doublet and Argyll, both of which had open lapels, Highland Evening Dress suddenly introduced Evening Dress jackets with military-style "stand collars" in the decade immediately following the end of WWI.

BTW stand collars appeared in military uniform in the early 19th century; 18th century jackets, military and civilian alike, had open collars with lapels.

One wonders if the sudden appearance of stand collars in Highland Evening jackets in the 1920s was WWI military influence, or reaching back into 19th century costume.

It does run counter to a typical trend in men's civilian fashion: following a big war men's civilian fashion goes 180 degrees from military uniforms, and tends to be loose and comfortable. In long periods of peace men's civilian fashion sometimes gets a military flavour. Odd, that.

Interesting observation OCR and thank you. Allied to that, the military too reached back to the 19thC during an earlier restructuring of the armed forces in UK (read amalgamations). We moved away from the open fronted mess dress jackets and back to the high collared jackets and similarly collared full buttoned waistcoats. It removed the need for a neck tie, but was far less comfortable! That said, my waistcoat does sit rather nicely under a sheriffmuir doublet!