Gauntlet/Argyll Cuff

[OC Richard]

Threads like this are great because members like Tobus will post great photos and information, and also they force me to take a look at aspects of my own clothes that I hadn't thought about.

Here are my tweed Argylls L-R labelled "Made In Scotland", "Made In United Kingdom", and "Cooper & McKenzie Made In United Kingdom".

As you see only the Cooper & McKenzie has actual cuffs.



Here's a cuff turned out. It's only held by a short bit of stitching at the base of the points



Another view.



At the bottom the outside tweed just turns over, and goes up around an inch where it's let into the satin lining.

One could, my merely undoing the bit of stitching at the cuff-points, shorten or lengthen the sleeves without having to do any other sewing.

Overall, the Cooper & McKenzie cuffs most resemble Tobus' jacket #3.

[Highland Logan]

One could, my merely undoing the bit of stitching at the cuff-points, shorten or lengthen the sleeves without having to do any other sewing.

Or replace if worn, with little change in the jacket. Very similar to a turned up cuff on Saxon style jacket, and the same purpose.

Thanks for the photos OCR.

Once again, I'll have a post for this section of the forum, very soon.

Frank

[McMurdo]

This is an interesting thread. I decided to look at my vintage jackets with Argyll cuffs, what I found was that only one of them was not sewn down completely, that one is from the 1940's. Here are some photos

Group shot from Left to Right: Blue Argyll from I think the 1980's, Brown Argyll from the 1940's, Russet Brown Argyll from 1894, Velvet Doublet from 1911.

(Note that the only jacket with imitation horn is the blue argyll from the 1980's)

[MacCathmhaoil]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

[Highland Logan]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Thank you for sharing the photos of your jackets.

Frank

[polarflea]

There are 4 with gauntlet cuffs in my collection, two tweed day jackets and 2 velvet evening jackets. The two tweed jackets and the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Thank you for sharing the detail of your velvet jackets - the insight is helpful for some tailoring projects I have underway.

[figheadair]

the 1 velvet argyle jacket with piping on the cuff date from the 1970’s. The other velvet jacket, a balmoral, date’s from 1958. Buttons on the velvet argyle are held on by small cotter pins with retaining discs, this allows the buttons to be easily exchanged or removed for polishing.

Those are nice buttons, presumably silver if they require polishing? They remind me of the ones that the Duke of Rothesay wears. This jacket is obviously bespoke, who made it?

[MacCathmhaoil]

The sleeve on the right belongs to a balmoral type doublet made by William Anderson in 1958 for an uncle. The buttons are riveted cut steel buttons that came from one of the great-grandfathers court dress and are original to the doublet.
The sleeve on the left has sterling silver buttons that are copies cast from the original buttons on the balmoral. A friend is a jeweller and cast them for me, thankfully at cost! They can be removed to polish them but I found it’s much easier/quicker to use a button plate that slips behind them to protect the velvet and polish them in place. I did have extras cast of the smaller buttons for a waistcoat and matching cuff links.

[Father Bill]

The sleeve on the right belongs to a balmoral type doublet made by William Anderson in 1958 for an uncle. The buttons are riveted cut steel buttons that came from one of the great-grandfathers court dress and are original to the doublet.
The sleeve on the left has sterling silver buttons that are copies cast from the original buttons on the balmoral. A friend is a jeweller and cast them for me, thankfully at cost! They can be removed to polish them but I found it’s much easier/quicker to use a button plate that slips behind them to protect the velvet and polish them in place. I did have extras cast of the smaller buttons for a waistcoat and matching cuff links.

I used to have a 'button plate' but cannot find it. Any ideas where to source one?

[figheadair]

The sleeve on the right belongs to a balmoral type doublet made by William Anderson in 1958 for an uncle. The buttons are riveted cut steel buttons that came from one of the great-grandfathers court dress and are original to the doublet.
The sleeve on the left has sterling silver buttons that are copies cast from the original buttons on the balmoral. A friend is a jeweller and cast them for me, thankfully at cost! They can be removed to polish them but I found it’s much easier/quicker to use a button plate that slips behind them to protect the velvet and polish them in place. I did have extras cast of the smaller buttons for a waistcoat and matching cuff links.

Those are very nice and such a treat to have something handed down in the family.