Traditional (Regulation) Doublet

[Tobus]

Wow, you definitely went all in with this project! Well done! I like to see people taking the long approach to custom work like this, rather than the quick "gotta have it now" approach of off-the-rack.

I'm curious on your statement about quilted lining being a hallmark of older jacket construction. A couple of my vintage jackets have quilted lining, and I was curious if you had a time frame in mind as to when this died out.

[Highland Logan]

Wow, you definitely went all in with this project! Well done! I like to see people taking the long approach to custom work like this, rather than the quick "gotta have it now" approach of off-the-rack.

I'm curious on your statement about quilted lining being a hallmark of older jacket construction. A couple of my vintage jackets have quilted lining, and I was curious if you had a time frame in mind as to when this died out.

Thanks, and to your question... I really can't say. I know it had, it was an 19th century thing. It helped in making the fit of a jacket conform to the body, well allowing the "right" hang off of the body. It showed off the skill of the tailor and shop. To the best of my knowledge, and I'm no clothing historian, sometime in the early 20th century, with I imagine holdouts to the older style lasting into the mid-20th.

If OCR is kicking around, I'm sure of any of us, he has the right answer.

Frank

[figheadair]

Nice project. It reminds me of my Doublet, made by Meyer & Mortimer in 1943 and the recent buttons I found, that were made in 1923.

[Highland Logan]

Nice project. It reminds me of my Doublet, made by Meyer & Mortimer in 1943 and the recent buttons I found, that were made in 1923.

Thanks. I really wanted something to go better with my long goat hair. I do have a couple of event a year where this will get good and appropriate use.

Frank

[figheadair]

Thanks. I really wanted something to go better with my long goat hair. I do have a couple of event a year where this will get good and appropriate use.

My two. The silver buttons on the older one were a great find.

[Highland Logan]

My two. The silver buttons on the older one were a great find.

Nice kit. I love those buttons!

Frank

[OC Richard]

That's fantastic!

Yes it's a very traditional doublet, and unlike the modern "regulation" doublets which as you say look almost like a Prince Charlie with the tashes tacked on.

Of course doublets existed in a wide variety of cuts and lapel styles.

I did find one very similar to yours, with the leading edges of the tashes in line with the front opening of the jacket, and perhaps a similar number and arrangement of buttons:



Another doublet with the in-line front edges, but with deeper lapels and fewer buttons



Here with double-breasted waistcoat



Sometimes they're cut to hang open in a wide inverted V.
Hard to imagine it would be possible to button the lower buttons.



A piped one



Sometimes doublets are cut so that they can be buttoned



This doublet has the tashes set back slightly, giving a slight notch; it has your four buttons

[McMurdo]

I'll add a photo of me in my vintage dated 1911 doublet from a past Burns Night. I thought it might be a welcome addition to the discussion.

[Shinenotburn]

Wonderful project that will do you proud no doubt. Anxious for those pictures. Stay well

[Highland Logan]

Wonderful project that will do you proud no doubt. Anxious for those pictures. Stay well

Thank you. I will and to you as well.

Frank