Traditional (Regulation) Doublet

[Highland Logan]

Just got this today. It's been a while coming.










Frank

[Padraicog]

And it's made by?

[DougH]

I do believe that this situation calls for some modeling.

[gsmacleod]

Fantastic! That's a lovely looking jacket!

Shane

[imrichmond]

Nice looking jacket. Interesting closure. It's the first time I've seen a regulation doublet with a four-button closure. Was this a variation you requested, or is this the maker's usual style?

[Highland Logan]

Sorry to post and run yesterday, so here's the follow-up.

I've been working on this since late Oct 2019 with a local tailor; Vic Master Tailor, with the on-paper (I want a traditional formal doublet) process having started in early 2019.

I'm not a fan of the current style of Regulation Doublet, which to my eye is nothing more than a Prince Charlie Coatee with (Inverness flaps) tashes. Once again, personal taste and choice.

I settled on the older style, as I prefer the style of buttoned non-close front, and the front tashes following the lines of the jacket close. The front pocket tashes, the non-sewn down gauntlet cuffs, etc.

So what to base this jacket on, and where would I have it made?

I found what I was looking for at the McCord Museum in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.



After asking about the jacket, Anne-Frédérique Beaulieu, the museum Coordinator, Digital Information Management, Collections, was kind enough to provide the info they had on the jack and had it removed from storage and send me many photos of different details as requested.

After talking with Vic, during the early stages, I soon learned that as many tailors, he had what patterns were available for different styles of jackets. The patterns he had for a "Regulation" Doublet, were not much different that off the rack versions carried but multiple Highland shops.

The reason I went with Vic, his his shops background doing Army, Navy and Airforce Mess Dress, as well as some limited Scottish jackets (mostly Highland Regiments). So to ensure I got what I wanted, and only photos to go on, I had to hunt down an old pattern book. The differences between the pattern and the photos would be easy to square.. but I need a pattern.

The pattern I found was from "The Modern Tailor Outfitter And Clothier Vol. 2 Ed. 4th, Chapter III, Scottish Dress".




...... to be continued.....

[Highland Logan]

... and now back to the story...



With the more traditional pattern, and detail photos, it was just a matter of deciding on what direction I wanted on certain things. The original jacket dates from the late1880's and the pattern book dates from 1918. Some things had changed, but lot too much.

The original jacket was doeskin, which was already my choice of fabric. Colour had to be midnight blue. A colour I was familiar with due to my uniform Patrol Dress in the Royal Canadian Artillery. I also carried over the notched lapel, rather than the more "modern" peaked lapel, and the four button front. All to keep with the look. I also chose to use a similar striped lining with waistcoat, and although I didn't see photos of the sleeve lining, I asked for the same fabric to be used. This along with the quilted jacket lining are hallmarks of older jacket construction.

Buttons were going to be a problem. I wanted the older style diamond or kite style with thistle. All of the buttons I found were pewter, long shanked, and rough in construction. After a lot of searching I come across Jason Calder and Highland Etc. Ltd., located in New Zealand. The buttons are well made and sold nickel.



I needed a lot of buttons! Jason was unable to supply these until after his shipment came in, which wouldn't be until March.. so best laid plans.. this outfit wouldn't see Robbie Burns Night.. but might be ready by The Burns Club, Jean Armour Night.

Buttons in and fussing with details with Vic.. and well, we all know what came next.

So the reason for the post and run. I do have back issues, and had a flare up. I do plan to get all geared up to see the doublet etc., in all it's glory. I will post a photo.

Thanks for the feedback gang.


In case anyone feels I should have gone with the scarlet waistcoat, like the photos from the museum.



I did... but wanted the self coloured as well.

Frank

[Tobus]

Wow, you definitely went all in with this project! Well done! I like to see people taking the long approach to custom work like this, rather than the quick "gotta have it now" approach of off-the-rack.

I'm curious on your statement about quilted lining being a hallmark of older jacket construction. A couple of my vintage jackets have quilted lining, and I was curious if you had a time frame in mind as to when this died out.

[Highland Logan]

Wow, you definitely went all in with this project! Well done! I like to see people taking the long approach to custom work like this, rather than the quick "gotta have it now" approach of off-the-rack.

I'm curious on your statement about quilted lining being a hallmark of older jacket construction. A couple of my vintage jackets have quilted lining, and I was curious if you had a time frame in mind as to when this died out.

Thanks, and to your question... I really can't say. I know it had, it was an 19th century thing. It helped in making the fit of a jacket conform to the body, well allowing the "right" hang off of the body. It showed off the skill of the tailor and shop. To the best of my knowledge, and I'm no clothing historian, sometime in the early 20th century, with I imagine holdouts to the older style lasting into the mid-20th.

If OCR is kicking around, I'm sure of any of us, he has the right answer.

Frank

[figheadair]

Nice project. It reminds me of my Doublet, made by Meyer & Mortimer in 1943 and the recent buttons I found, that were made in 1923.