rethinking "traditional" dress and the Hire impact

[OC Richard]

By the turn of the century, it appears that more established shops were taking over the industry and by the 1920s they were setting the standards...in my opinion, the 1920-1970 era was still a very rigid period in terms of fashion, as dictated by a handful of outfitters who made and sold their products as generic fashion items, rather than individually tailored custom designs. This certainly had a striking effect on "tradition".

Yet, people like the Duke of Rothesay, clothed in bespoke things, are to be seen wearing the same styles, even to the present day.

Highland outfitters could produce anything they want, but they can only sell what people want to wear.

I've mentioned before that I reject the notion that the catalogues of Highland Outfitters, or for that matter Sears & Roebuck or any other firm, would waste space in their catalogues for things that people aren't purchasing. Printing and distributing catalogues is expensive, much more so in the 1920s than today, and space in a catalogue is pricey real estate.

My theories aside, I can produce hundreds of vintage photos showing that people are wearing the same things seen in the catalogues, and not wearing things not seen in the catalogues.

Except of course for members of the aristocracy with their bespoke clothing, and they too follow the same styles.

[Jock Scot]

Yet, people like the Duke of Rothesay, clothed in bespoke things, are to be seen wearing the same styles, even to the present day.

Highland outfitters could produce anything they want, but they can only sell what people want to wear.

I've mentioned before that I reject the notion that the catalogues of Highland Outfitters, or for that matter Sears & Roebuck or any other firm, would waste space in their catalogues for things that people aren't purchasing. Printing and distributing catalogues is expensive, much more so in the 1920s than today, and space in a catalogue is pricey real estate.

My theories aside, I can produce hundreds of vintage photos showing that people are wearing the same things seen in the catalogues, and not wearing things not seen in the catalogues.

Except of course for members of the aristocracy with their bespoke clothing, and they too follow the same styles.

I don't think that I can honestly recall ever perusing a kilt attire catalogue. I was always guided by what my peers and my immediate family were wearing and of course I had the advantage of hand-me-downs. I well remember going to the kilt maker and after describing a style of jacket that I had in my minds eye and being extremely miffed when he suggested firmly, that if I wanted a jacket in that style, then I had better go elsewhere! So yes tailors had a real imput to kilt attire style.

I Have not always followed the traditional line though! in my 20's I was at ball and I spotted a kilt jacket that I thought was just me! A Sheriffmuir, as I later discovered, and had one made. There was no off the peg option in those days, I loved that jacket and almost went into decline when I grew out of it. I still see it occasionally being worn by a nephews son. My senior family were really not impressed with that jacket and never were!

Much later, when I recycled amongst the larger family a large wardrobe of inherited kilt attire and streamlined my kilt attire requirements, I bought a black leather sporran and black leather strap that I still use today. I spotted it in a shop window as I walked by and I have never regretted buying it and in a minor way even set a trend.

I really dont think catalogues had much influence in the Highlands, kilt attire was expected to last and a purchase of kilt kit was left to when we were in town and could choose our kit after personal inspection.

[Laird O'the Cowcaddens]

I have to concur with Jock about catalogues. The first time I recall seeing any kind of clothing catalogue was a visit to the city mainland and that was if I remember correctly Littlewoods Store. We always went to the same tailors/clothiers etc that my grandfather had used.

[Tobus]

Highland outfitters could produce anything they want, but they can only sell what people want to wear.

I've mentioned before that I reject the notion that the catalogues of Highland Outfitters, or for that matter Sears & Roebuck or any other firm, would waste space in their catalogues for things that people aren't purchasing. Printing and distributing catalogues is expensive, much more so in the 1920s than today, and space in a catalogue is pricey real estate.

I didn't claim that people didn't want what they were offering. In fact, I agree that the reason they were successful in cornering the market was because they offered stylish designs. But by the same token, this was part of the decline of the wider range of styles created by small shops and tailors. We see similar patterns today where "big box stores" drive out smaller shops so that they can sell bulk products from larger suppliers. People love it and flock there to buy their wares. But make no mistake; when that happens, there is a reduction in variety and options. The large sellers may not be intentionally driving others out of business or intentionally killing off alternative suppliers, but over time that's what happens. Nobody really intends it to, but people wake up one day and realise that the one supplier is the only place to get what they're looking for.

Granted, the comparison isn't completely accurate, but this is a similar pattern that has happened in many industries over the last century. Regional styles have fallen to national fashion. Craft workers have been driven out of business by industrial producers. It's the way of the world, and I'm not claiming it's either bad or good. I'm just saying it had an effect on what we view as "traditional" Highland style clothing. Within the span of a couple of decades, much of the variety went away (led by consumer desire to chase fashion, as you point out) and the definition of Highland attire became the purview of these outfitting companies.

[figheadair]

Highland outfitters could produce anything they want, but they can only sell what people want to wear.

Or to turn it around, people (generally) wear what the Highland Outfitters offer off-the-peg. Most novices going into a kilt shop have no idea of what could be available and are guided (firmly steered) by the shop staff. The old adage that one gets what one pays for is equally true n Highland wear as with any other clothes.