Great Kilt, Little kilt Historical information wanted

[figheadair]

i guess my interest lies with when the Highland regiments stopped using the great kilt, the +/- 8 yard double width plaid and began exclusively wearing the kilt which appears much as todays modern kilts.

Broadly speaking, c1800. Here's Ensign Bramwell's 92nd uniform made in 1815: sewn 4 yard box pleated kilt with half plaid.

[Jacques]

Broadly speaking, c1800. Here's Ensign Bramwell's 92nd uniform made in 1815: sewn 4 yard box pleated kilt with half plaid.

Thank you Peter.

So there's my missing link i suppose. Great kilt, Kilt with half plaid, and a little kilt of sorts; closer to its modern cousin. i wonder what Sgt Anton was on about.

[Father Bill]

Broadly speaking, c1800. Here's Ensign Bramwell's 92nd uniform made in 1815: sewn 4 yard box pleated kilt with half plaid.

That is one massive and impressive sporran. More in there, I'd wager, than his handkerchief.

[figheadair]

That is one massive and impressive sporran. More in there, I'd wager, than his handkerchief.

Actually, it was all about show; form rather than function. The bag itself is relatively modest.

[Father Bill]

Actually, it was all about show; form rather than function. The bag itself is relatively modest.

I rather thought as much, but much appreciated for the photographic evidence, Peter!

[KnittedReenactor]

I tend to remember the difference this way:
-Feileadh Beag is smaller, so you're 'begging' for more cloth. Therefore, single width.

-Feileadh Mor has 'more' cloth to begin with. Therefore, double width.


And to my knowledge, the Feileadh of the period would typically only have maybe 4 yards of material, whether single or double width. The 'whole 8 yards' kilts didn't really come into use until the latter Victorian era (1880s-90s). And the same for pleating to the sett; most were to the stripe or so roughly pleated as to have no pattern to the pleats, until that latter period. Soldiers would have been issued at most 4 yards of fabric annually, which was made into the kilt. Apparently those with sewn pleats picked them apart quarterly, hunted any cooties, turned the fabric, resewn on the fresh edge (to combat wear) and repeated on the opposite face in three months.
If this is an out of date understanding, I welcome any corrections.

[OC Richard]

Beag and mor are merely Gaelic for little and big, keeping that in mind helps.

The "philebeg" is mentioned in the 1746 proscription.

And there's the story about Rawlinson inventing it around 1730.

Seems that the philabeg was worn in the 18th century Highland regiments for fatigues etc.

Barnes says that the philamore was only worn by officers after 1794, Other Ranks having a small plaid (belted plaid or fly plaid, a decorative garment) to wear with the philabeg in Full Dress.

Not long after the officers followed suit.

What people sometimes forget is that on campaign and in action officers would be mounted, wearing riding breeches and Hessian boots. Generally officers were only kilted on parade with the regiment, or in Levee Dress.