Thank you for your good advice! I do have Barb Tewksbury's book, and it has been my primary guide through this process. Not totally sure where we'll end up, but now leaning toward pleating to the sett, as this is the more "ancient" style, as my hubby is all about the historical styles of kilt making/wearing. (Looks like pleating to the stripe is a more "modern" style - past 100 yrs or so?). As well as the fact that there isn't one stripe that passes the "squint test" on this particular tartan. Thoughts?