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Thread: sett vs stripe

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by lorilavon View Post
    Thank you for your good advice! I do have Barb Tewksbury's book, and it has been my primary guide through this process. Not totally sure where we'll end up, but now leaning toward pleating to the sett, as this is the more "ancient" style, as my hubby is all about the historical styles of kilt making/wearing. (Looks like pleating to the stripe is a more "modern" style - past 100 yrs or so?). As well as the fact that there isn't one stripe that passes the "squint test" on this particular tartan. Thoughts?
    Actually, I'm led by some to believe that box pleating is actually the more ancient style. I have two kilts - a Sinclair modern pleated to the sett, and a Sinclair hunting modern, box pleated to the stripe, box being the forerunner, I'm told, of knife pleats. I love both. For those who are concerned about weight and heat, they are both 16 oz, but the box pleat is slightly lighter and cooler so . . .

    . . . Ya' pays yer money and ya' takes your choice. Should you be interested in box pleats, I believe Barb has an online appendix on how to do that successfully.
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair with solid Welsh and other heritage.

  2. #2
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    oy vey! This is my first kilt, so I figured knife pleats would be "easier" (that being said, I've been sewing garments (not kilts!) my entire life). I'm open to the idea of box pleats, but don't know much about them. Does pleating to sett or stripe even matter for box pleats? Maybe I need to step back to look at this more closely...
    Last edited by lorilavon; 15th April 23 at 08:14 PM.

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by lorilavon View Post
    oy vey! This is my first kilt, so I figured knife pleats would be "easier" (that being said, I've been sewing garments (not kilts!) my entire life). I'm open to the idea of box pleats, but don't know much about them. Does pleating to sett or stripe even matter for box pleats? Maybe I need to step back to look at this more closely...
    Mine is box to the stripe and I love it. Your call. Box are likely easier to construct but I’m no kiltmaker. I sew on buttons pretty well. Oy gevalt!
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair with solid Welsh and other heritage.

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Bill View Post
    Actually, I'm led by some to believe that box pleating is actually the more ancient style. .
    Correct. Even (balanced) box pleats are the earliest sewn form and date to c.1780-1800. An increase in the amount of cloth caused a change in style to and overlapping box, something Bob Martin called a 'box-knife', and then somewhere around the middle of the 19th century we see the introduction of knife pleats. Even so, box pleats were still the standard form until the 1880s. In every style they were pleated to stripe.

    Pleating to sett came in c.1880-90 and was the reason for the increase in the amount of cloth to the standard 8 yard kilt.

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  8. #5
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    Thank you all for the great info and history on pleating!

    I think we're leaning toward knife pleating to the sett, despite the fact that it's "newer" compared to box pleating, for a few reasons:

    1) I already purchased 4 yards of the 16 oz tartan (double width).
    2) We kind of like the "swoosh" of the knife pleats
    3) I like the idea of preserving the aesthetic of the sett throughout the pleats (along with the fact that this tartan doesn't have any one stripe that is asking for attention)
    4) For what it's worth, we like the idea that this is the most common style in Scotland right now (compared to stripe knife-pleated in the US).
    If you have any more thoughts on this, keep them coming! I'm learning so much!
    Last edited by lorilavon; 16th April 23 at 06:56 PM.

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  10. #6
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    I think you're making a good choice. Good luck with it, and keep asking questions. There's always somebody here who's run into the problem before you, and found a solution.
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair with solid Welsh and other heritage.

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  12. #7
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    I'll post pics as the kilt comes to life, in case any one is interested!

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  14. #8
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    Do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by lorilavon View Post
    I'll post pics as the kilt comes to life, in case any one is interested!
    We would LOVE pictures of your efforts!

    Reverse kingussie Cheater pleats to the stripe on my great kilt....

    20221015_121255.jpg

    Did this to help not catch and drop everything I pass by onto the ground!

    I did the pleating wife did the sewing-

  15. #9
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    I very much prefer pleating to the stripe for both aesthetic and practical reasons.

    Aesthetic:

    1) pleating to the stripe gives you two looks for the price of one. The pleated back portion, according to which stripe you choose to be repeated, can strongly contrast with the front apron. It can choose to accent a relatively minor portion of the tartan for striking effect.

    2) if you have the visible portion of the pleats show a dark portion of the tartan, but have a bright portion of the tartan just underneath, when the pleats swish when walking a striking effect is created.

    3) I suppose more philosophical than aesthetic, but in design there's an ethos "form follows function" which manifests itself over and over in clothing including Highland Dress. The kilt is pleated in back. Why employ trompe l'oeil attempts to make the pleated portion of the kilt look like the unpleated portion? Let pleats look like pleats.

    Practical:

    4) kilts that are pleated to the sett have the tartan, and the belt loops, conform to an imaginary centre-line, just as the tartan on the front apron does. If your weight goes up or down and you move buckles to keep your kilt well-fitting, the back centre-line will be thrown off. Kilts pleated to the stripe (especially if they lack belt loops) have no rear centre-line and will look smart even when taken in or let out a number of inches.

    This is part of the reason most Pipe Bands have kilts pleated to the stripe. A band might wear the same "band set" of kilts for several decades, the kilts being taken in and let out repeatedly for generations of band members.

    All this being said, I do believe that there are some tartans which for their full aesthetic effect need to have all the colours of the tartan be seen in their proper proportions. Or perhaps it's just that these tartans have been ill-served by having the wrong portions of the tartan repeated in the pleats, and a better pleating method might exist.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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  17. #10
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    It’s all about personal preference. Set vs Strip and if striped, to wich strip.

    I would personally go with the red strip with white guards.(white lines on both sides)
    Clan Logan Representative of Ontario
    https://www.instagram.com/clanlogan_ontario_canada/ (that's where i post my blogs)
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