I forgot to mention that a very practical advantage of
1) pleating to the stripe
2) not having belt loops
is that if you gain or lose weight, or if the kilt ends up being worn by somebody else, the buckles & straps can be moved to increase or decrease the waist size and the back of the kilt will still look the same.
But in the case of most modern kilts, pleated to the sett and having belt loops, the back of the kilt has a definite centre, which is thrown off-centre when the waist size is altered.
I see it all the time. It's not a good look.
Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte
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