X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.
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19th June 25, 10:30 PM
#13
Whichout wishing to pour water onto this idea, there are a number of considerations to factor in.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Initial Run - to prove the concept I'd start with commissioning scarves. Can anyone suggest how many will both pique interest from a mill and take me from plucky amateur status and the general thresholds where the price per item drops?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
If you are thinking only about scarves at this stage, then probably 100 as a minimum. Yes, there are economies of scale but the figure will be in the 100s, possibly 1000s. What one needs t bear in mind is that it is not the number of scarves, that's a function of the weaving and finishing process, but the length of the warp which would in turn determine the number of scarves.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Production - How are scarves made, is e.g. 30m of fabric produced and then cut and turned into them or do/can they come off the loom good to go? I appreciate to a professional weaver this may come across as the dumbest question ever.[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Commercially, they are woven with number across the width of the loom, separated by an unwoven section of the warp on each side. They then have to be cut and finished.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Pricing - If anyone is willing to share that sort of information on the forum or in DM I'd appreciate it. Even just ballpark figures.[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
That is wholly dependent on the material, quantity. I have had some cashmere scarves woven in the past but only as part of a larger order for some bespoke material and so cannot give a price.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Materials - How does the cost of cashmere vs lambswool for a trade customer differ? Are there any additional considerations?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
In the same way it does for a retail customer, cashmere is more expensive.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Mills - In addition to the three mentioned above would anyone else recommend any others or throw their own hat in the ring?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Johnstons of Elgin.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Lead Times - I've been told a month to set everything up and three months later the finished items. Is that about right? Some people I have spoken to have said there are setup fees that are waived with a certain length of fabric is ordered.[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Three months is the absolute minimum. Four+ months is more realistic.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Relationships - What is the best way to establish a trade relationship, what do commercial weavers look for in trade customers? ..... other than paying on time and in full.[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
That you are a business of some sort and often they require some sort of business reference(s).
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]White Label - Will any of the mills produce packaging with my company logo and brand identity?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Most will but it would generally be in addition to their own label as the weaver. Any label also needs to state the material and country of origin.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Labels - A big part of it is having something that conveys exclusivity, I notice Harris Tweed have labels with sequential numbers, can anyone suggest companies who can produce these please? Are these domestically produced or unique to Harris Tweed?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Harris tweed labelling is unique as far as I know and in part is a result of the restrictions set but the Act of Parliament that controls production.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Additional Products - There may very well be scope for kilts and other goods. Harris Tweed have expanded into leather goods (wallets, purses, handbags) which incorporate their fabrics. With things like this are the components sourced abroad and assembled here, assembled abroad, is the manufacturer a third party who can produce for any customer?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
These are produced by a third party, of which there are any number both at home and abroad. You would probably need to spend some time searching online for supplies.
[QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]Widening the fabric range/designs - Initially it will be bespoke tartans, but in time I think there could be a market for tweed and houndstooth and printed silks. For the weaving aspect can most mills accomplish the first three? And do any have the capacity for silks (probably printed patterns) or is that another thing entirely?[/QUOTE=āluinn;1411755]
Yes to tweed and houndstooth, although there are also bespoke tweed manufacturers, but silk printing is something entirely different. Silk is also very expensive to work with by comparison.
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