Can't sew - have to buy - how to compare?

[Barb T]

3. On a 36” waist with a tartan sett of about 13 cm (5 in) would a pleat reveal of 2 cm (3/4 in) with a depth of 10 cm (4 in) be reasonable to expect for an 8 yd kilt? (24+ pleats?) Would more be better? How many? Deeper pleat? How much?

A tartan sett of 5" is pretty small and unlikely on any tartan above 11 oz weight. Most 16 oz tartans have setts in the neighborhoof of 7-10".

OK, now for the more complicated part. Because tartan kilts are pleated either to the stripe or the sett, the depth of the pleats is governed entirely by the size of the sett. You can't just decide arbitrarily what the pleat depth will be. For example, an 8" sett pleated to the stripe would make a pleat every 8", which would give a pleat depth of about 3.5" if there were a reveal of 1", because (8"-1")/2 = 3.5". If the kilt were pleated to the sett, the pleats would be slightly deeper because it's slightly more than 1 sett between pleats.

The number of pleats is also not arbitrary but, rather, a function of how much cloth you have for pleating (which depends on how much you choose to use for the whole kilt and how big a person you are) _and_ how big the set is. If you have an 8" sett and 200" available for the back of the kilt, you'll get 27 pleats if pleated to the stripe and probably 25 if you pleat to the sett. If the sett is 10", you'll have only 20 pleats if you pleat to the stripe.

So, you just specify an 8-yard kilt and trust the kiltmaker. They'll look at your measurements and decide whether you really need a 9-yard kilt for the tartan you've chosen or whether 8 will do. After the yardage is chosen, and the style of pleating, there is literally no choice in the number of pleats or their depth - it's govered by the tartan you've chosen.
Barb

[Scottish Chi]

I am beginning to have a much better understanding of kilts and an appreciation of the value of an accomplished kiltmaker.

It appears that I do have some leeway in the final cost and still purchase a high quality kilt without having to break the bank. I still plan on considering some of the companies in Scotland but from the forums I see that there are quite a few highly recommended traditional kiltmakers here in the US that I should talk to. I have already set up a file of the website for those that were recommended. As mentioned a bonus for buying in the US is not having to be concerned with customs.

I recognize all the folks that have replied from the many other informative posts on all the forums and appreciate the time you all take to help out a novice. Thanks.

Since I don't have to order right away I have the luxury of talking to many of these folks before I make my decision. Fortunately the yardage and weight as well as the tartan (Ferguson) has already been decided. That makes some of the selection easier.

I was hoping BarbT with her knowledge of kilt construction would respond. Your explanation was just what I needed to feel more comfortable about the pleating. I am probably off on the measurement of the set from the original post. That will be cleared up as I contact the different kiltmakers. I was concerned about spending the money for an 8yd 16 oz traditional kilt and getting 20 pleats with a 1 inch reveal and a 2 inch depth. Even with my limited knowledge this would have limited appeal for drape and swing. Now I know more about what to ask for before I "lays me money down".
Looking forward to the day when I can help others in the same knowledgable and gracious manner that you folks do.
Bill

[Kilted KT]

A tartan sett of 5" is pretty small and unlikely on any tartan above 11 oz weight. Most 16 oz tartans have setts in the neighborhoof of 7-10".

OK, now for the more complicated part. Because tartan kilts are pleated either to the stripe or the sett, the depth of the pleats is governed entirely by the size of the sett. You can't just decide arbitrarily what the pleat depth will be. For example, an 8" sett pleated to the stripe would make a pleat every 8", which would give a pleat depth of about 3.5" if there were a reveal of 1", because (8"-1")/2 = 3.5". If the kilt were pleated to the sett, the pleats would be slightly deeper because it's slightly more than 1 sett between pleats.

The number of pleats is also not arbitrary but, rather, a function of how much cloth you have for pleating (which depends on how much you choose to use for the whole kilt and how big a person you are) _and_ how big the set is. If you have an 8" sett and 200" available for the back of the kilt, you'll get 27 pleats if pleated to the stripe and probably 25 if you pleat to the sett. If the sett is 10", you'll have only 20 pleats if you pleat to the stripe.

So, you just specify an 8-yard kilt and trust the kiltmaker. They'll look at your measurements and decide whether you really need a 9-yard kilt for the tartan you've chosen or whether 8 will do. After the yardage is chosen, and the style of pleating, there is literally no choice in the number of pleats or their depth - it's govered by the tartan you've chosen.
Barb

Can we get this posted in the FAQ's? this far too important of a subject to loose in the depths of the forums.