Please clarify reverse pleats

[way2fractious]

Pleater has suggested narrower-than-traditional aprons so that they actually fall between the knees when sitting. Incidentally, the reverse Kinguisse pleating style she describes is exactly what Utilikilts uses.

The Wizard of BC reminds us that the deep pleat and the reverse pleat appear far too deep at the hip line, but when you add flare to the aprons of 1.5 to 2 inches on each side, the depths at hemline are much smaller.

I have made several cotton casuals with 2-inch reveals and 4-inches hidden. This produces only three layers of fabric below the hip line and makes them very easy to realign for ironing.

My most irritating issue with cotton or cotton/poly kilts has been the "dip," where the hem on the deep and reverse pleats has to be modified to prevent the points from showing beneath the aprons. Because cotton is so unforgiving, the dips canot be handled the same way as wool. Despite several experiments, I still have to reach down and adjust the deep pleats back into place after they have been extended. It has just become a second-nature movement, similar to the sweep before sitting.

Anyway, let nothing deter you from making your own kilt. My first handmade attempt (and several others) is not the prettiest nor most used of my kilts, but it retains an honored place in my closet and it is still used on occasion.

[Pleater]

The amount of fabric you need to go round you whan you sit is perhaps rather more than you think - particularly in a stiff fabric which is going to remain in its folds rather than spread out.

Remember that when you sit there needs to be enough fabric in the front of the kilt to go over the thighs as well as across the lap, and that the weight of the small pleats and the rigidity of the fabric will make them tend to fall back on each side of the hips, outside the thighs.

If there is not enough fabric then there might be a tendency for the aprons to be drawn apart, with distinctly draughty consequences. This might also be a problem if you need to step over some obstacle or up onto a kickstep or just to put your foot up to tie a lace.

[The Wizard of BC]

Actually the "dip" w2f describes is very easy to take care of, but it must be done at the same time you sew the hem. Accurate measuring and forthought is a must.
I would describe how to do this but it is one of those things that makes a Freedom Kilt so distinctive and I'm not sure I want to reveal a company secret.

I will though for a price

And please remember I'm not talking about the length of fabric needed to go around you standing or sitting but the amount of fabric needed to allow the fabric to move on its own. Even with a full width apron large enough deep and reverse pleats will allow the apron to fall between the legs.

[The Wizard of BC]

So, have we answered your original question yet?
Or did we get way too far off into kiltmaker lingo and detail?

[way2fractious]

I'm not sure I want to reveal a company secret.

I will though for a price

...And I was so hoping your forthcoming book on making contemporary kilts would reveal ALL the secrets...

[GlassMan]

Pleater has suggested narrower-than-traditional aprons so that they actually fall between the knees when sitting. Incidentally, the reverse Kinguisse pleating style she describes is exactly what Utilikilts uses.

And this is slightly off-topic but it strikes me as silly that even though the pleating method is quite old, Utilikilt was able to get the US Patent Office to issue a patent on it claiming to have invented it. While they probably did come up with it on their own, the issuance does show the sloppy work being done at the patent office. They will issue a patent for just about anything these days without proper research or thought. Sad, sad, sad.

And I must admit, know owning a UK for the first time, I really like the way that pleating style falls.

[Pleater]

It just seemed obvious - simple to make and and it accomodates such things as making from several strips of cloth, and changes in waist size more easily than when I was using a 'single run of knife pleats' design.

The two sides of the kilt are mirror images, the centre back lies flatter to the body and the full thickness of the pleats is at the sides. I have not had as many bruises as when I wore ordinary skirts and trousers - in fact I can't recall one at all recently.

I work with knitting machines and they are heavy, metal, and they sit on heavy metal stands with all sorts of bits sticking out at hip height, but the multiple layers of fabric seem to be quite protective.

Our patent office here was going to issue a patent on a traditional sun bonnet design, made in Dorset and surounding counties for centuries, to someone intent on denying a living to several small makers who had been producing them for decades. Luckily the person trying to get the patent crowed too soon. Someone heard what they were up to and got the patent process reversed.

The bonnet is made by folding and smocking a rectangle of fabric, very simple but quite distinctive, often seen in local paintings of rural life.

Yes, it really is amazing what you can patent.

[Rex_Tremende]

Yes, it really is amazing what you can patent.

If anyone is interested (and I don't know if it's been posted here before), Steven Villegas' patent can be viewed online, the Symmetrical Pleated Skirt (uh-oh). The diagram that is associated with this patent looks to be the original version and is no longer in production, as far as I know. The patent is not just about pleating, but also fasteners and pockets and object holders.

Regards,
"Three Utilikilt" Rex in Cincinnati

[GlassMan]

If anyone is interested (and I don't know if it's been posted here before), Steven Villegas' patent can be viewed online, the Symmetrical Pleated Skirt (uh-oh). The diagram that is associated with this patent looks to be the original version and is no longer in production, as far as I know. The patent is not just about pleating, but also fasteners and pockets and object holders.

Regards,
"Three Utilikilt" Rex in Cincinnati

Don't you just love the absolutely rediculous language used in US legal documents!

[The Wizard of BC]

In answer to "The Art of Contemporary Kilt Making" having all the secrets in it - - - Oh it will.


I have just set price per copy and it will be $1,740,959.52.


I told you I'd do it for a price.