Instructions for an 8 yard reverse Kinguisse style

[Pleater]

Now you should have the kilt laid out in its folds.

The 22 pleats should measure 20 inches from the edges of the aprons across the back. Fifteen sixteenths of an inch showing per pleat is close enough to 20 inches.

First sew the pleats into place with a row of stitches about 1/4 inch from the top edge. I find that to get it accurate it is necessary to do this by hand. It also prevents the edges of the pleats being curled over under the foot of the sewing machine.

Make sure that the fabric is straight and level across all the pleats except the edge of apron taper pleat, which will dip down a little between the apron and under apron pleat.

If you have not already done so finish the edges of the aprons as you wish.

Now you need to bind the top of the kilt, either with a strip of fabric from the left over piece, or some toning tape - though it should be of the same fibre content as the kilt or at least look as though it is. Remember not to iron a man made fibre tape at cotton fabric temperatures.

I usually sew the fabric strip onto the right side of the kilt, a little lower down than the first stabilising stitches so as to hide them, then fold the raw edge under and catch it down at the back by hand, though I have been known to sew through all the layers with a sewing machine when in a hurry. A tape is even faster as with the edges being selvages you can just sew it over the edge in one go.

What is still lacking is any way to secure the kilt.

I usually use a belt, so I create belt loops, one centre back and one at each side at the edges of the aprons. These are either on the straight of the grain or almost so, and it is easy to see where to sew through all the layers several inches down from the binding. I sew a fourth loop at the edge of the over apron.

These are sufficient to hold the kilt and the liner I attach to it.

The fabric quickly falls into pleats, and they will lie straight if the top edges of the fabric have been sewn accurately.

I do not sew the edges of the pleats, as it does not seem necessary. I actually iron the kilt spread out flat, on the wrong side, to get as much as possible of the fabric smooth.

I then hold the waist edge and gently shake and sway the kilt until the pleats fall neatly, then lay the top edge on the ironing board and smooth it down from the right side, then check that there are no folded edges or bad creases on the wrong side. If I want sharp edges I put a strip of thick cardboard under the edge so as to be able to press it, or I use hair straighteners

To put it on I thread the belt through the loop on the left side, the centre back, the right side, and then the edge of the apron once I have the wrapped round. I used to put a fastener on the inside apron, but found that the belt pulled the waist tight enough to make it undo, so it was not much use.

I have put tapes on some heavier kilts, one on the edge of the under apron and one on the inside of the waistband, so that once the belt is fastened I can tie the tapes and tuck them inside so the under apron can't drop down.

[Pleater]

I think I have covered the basic construction.

I have assumed that the fabric has a good selvage so the lower edge does not require finishing.

If the fabric is 54 or 60 inches wide then you can make two 24 inch long kilts and still have enough fabric left from the strip in the middle to make the waist bindings and the belt loops.

I sew the belt loops over the top of the binding so if one were to become worn or damaged it would be easy to change it without removing anything vital to the kilt. I did put them under the binding on my first kilts and then realised that was not sensible when I needed to move one when I lost some weight and the apron could not be pulled further round because a belt loop was in the way.

Anyone have comments or questions?

[pdcorlis]

Any chance this could be put into a .doc file and linked for download?

[Southern Breeze]

Thanks for the info. I've printed it out.

[Pleater]

Apologies - can't read my own writing - the box pleat centre back is sewn at 13 inches from the central fold not 16.

I am just starting to fold the second kilt I can make from the length of fabric and realised that it did not match the first one.

[O'Neille]

I think I'll make one of these from United Nations Cold War Camo. It should look great with the green and white. Thanks for the instructions. O'Neille

[Pleater]

I have made one of these from DPM, a three colour traditional type of disrupted pattern, but not military here in the UK, where military uniform camo is either two or four colours.

I wear it with a 'real' 1958 pattern belt with brass fittings, and one of several khaki tees or a dark cream shirt.

When constructing one of my kilts I usually sew everything by hand, but in order to get a slightly different waist I used the sewing machine to sew each individual fold HORIZONTALLY about two inches down from the upper edge, for about two inches along the pleat. This was to set the fold of the pleat at that point, so I could then sew the pleats in place at that level and then slightly flare the top - so making the narrowest point of the kilt within it, rather than at the top edge.