Instructions for an 8 yard reverse Kinguisse style

[Pleater]

I was wondering if anyone might be interested in the 'recipe' for making such a kilt. I can type out the construction information from my records, with additional instructions where required for clarity.

The black and DPM cotton fabric versions of this kilt which I wore on holiday were assumed to be Utilikilts by those who noticed them - though they are actually more traditional in structure than that.

[bubba]

I was wondering if anyone might be interested in the 'recipe' for making such a kilt. I can type out the construction information from my records, with additional instructions where required for clarity.

Indeed, I'd be very interested.

[ronstew]

What are they?

[Pleater]

OK - first a description of the finished article.

The kilt has an inverted pleat centre back with the pleats pointing backwards - so the pleats on the left side are as a normal knife pleated kilt, but the pleats on the left are a mirror image.

The waist size is 38 inches, with 20 inches of pleat and 18 inch aprons.

Each small pleat is 9 inches of fabric, with just under 1 inch exposed at the waist level and just over 4 inches covered.

The 10 pleats each side require 90 inches of fabric, and 4 yards of fabric is 144 inches, so for the inverted pleat, aprons and under apron pleat, there are 54inches left. As the two sides are almost identical I work from the centre back to each edge in turn, so dealing with 4 yards of fabric at a time.

You should have washed your fabric if it is a washable one, so as to shrink it to its finished size, and then torn or cut it to the length required, and also checked that it is not skewed by being rolled incorrectly - if it is, whilst it is damp pull it straight and fold it carefully, then allow it to dry.

[Eujeankilt]

I'm interested as well.

Thnaks for the offer.

Dale

[Southern Breeze]

I'm interested as well. Thanks for the offer.

[Pleater]

I do not put a taper or fringe on the edge of the apron, so if you are intending to do this it is best to tack the waist edge at the position you will be finishing it at - you can do the work completely if you like, and make the under apron edge too. I suggest you allow 3 inches for the edge of the apron and 1 for the under apron.

If you are going to have the edges straight, allow 1 inch.

All the measurements are made at the waist edge.

First find the exact centre back point of the kilt once the edges of the apron and under apron have been folded over. Fold the fabric right sides together, then sew straight down for 1 inch at a point 16 inches from the centre back, then bring the centre back to the sewing to make the inverted box pleat.

Now measure outwards along the waist and mark 9 inch intervals with bead headed pins, or a fabric marker, then fold them towards the centre back and hold them folded in place using safety pins. Once you have a pleat folded the pins can be removed.

When you have 10 pleats pinned down, then go to the apron or under apron and measure the 18 inches, then make a pleat 2 inches deep which will be the edge of the apron taper. The top of this small pleat is not sewn down level with the waist, as it is more like a dart than a pleat.

This little pleat can be the most awkward part of the whole kilt and if the fabric will not settle into a slight flare with the front fold running down to the hem in front of the back fold you can try damping and pressing or even sewing the fold exactly like a dart.

Now all the rest of the fabric is used to make the apron pleat, which is the 11th pleat on each side.

I just need to go back to my previous post and correct it.

[Pleater]

Now you should have the kilt laid out in its folds.

The 22 pleats should measure 20 inches from the edges of the aprons across the back. Fifteen sixteenths of an inch showing per pleat is close enough to 20 inches.

First sew the pleats into place with a row of stitches about 1/4 inch from the top edge. I find that to get it accurate it is necessary to do this by hand. It also prevents the edges of the pleats being curled over under the foot of the sewing machine.

Make sure that the fabric is straight and level across all the pleats except the edge of apron taper pleat, which will dip down a little between the apron and under apron pleat.

If you have not already done so finish the edges of the aprons as you wish.

Now you need to bind the top of the kilt, either with a strip of fabric from the left over piece, or some toning tape - though it should be of the same fibre content as the kilt or at least look as though it is. Remember not to iron a man made fibre tape at cotton fabric temperatures.

I usually sew the fabric strip onto the right side of the kilt, a little lower down than the first stabilising stitches so as to hide them, then fold the raw edge under and catch it down at the back by hand, though I have been known to sew through all the layers with a sewing machine when in a hurry. A tape is even faster as with the edges being selvages you can just sew it over the edge in one go.

What is still lacking is any way to secure the kilt.

I usually use a belt, so I create belt loops, one centre back and one at each side at the edges of the aprons. These are either on the straight of the grain or almost so, and it is easy to see where to sew through all the layers several inches down from the binding. I sew a fourth loop at the edge of the over apron.

These are sufficient to hold the kilt and the liner I attach to it.

The fabric quickly falls into pleats, and they will lie straight if the top edges of the fabric have been sewn accurately.

I do not sew the edges of the pleats, as it does not seem necessary. I actually iron the kilt spread out flat, on the wrong side, to get as much as possible of the fabric smooth.

I then hold the waist edge and gently shake and sway the kilt until the pleats fall neatly, then lay the top edge on the ironing board and smooth it down from the right side, then check that there are no folded edges or bad creases on the wrong side. If I want sharp edges I put a strip of thick cardboard under the edge so as to be able to press it, or I use hair straighteners

To put it on I thread the belt through the loop on the left side, the centre back, the right side, and then the edge of the apron once I have the wrapped round. I used to put a fastener on the inside apron, but found that the belt pulled the waist tight enough to make it undo, so it was not much use.

I have put tapes on some heavier kilts, one on the edge of the under apron and one on the inside of the waistband, so that once the belt is fastened I can tie the tapes and tuck them inside so the under apron can't drop down.

[Pleater]

I think I have covered the basic construction.

I have assumed that the fabric has a good selvage so the lower edge does not require finishing.

If the fabric is 54 or 60 inches wide then you can make two 24 inch long kilts and still have enough fabric left from the strip in the middle to make the waist bindings and the belt loops.

I sew the belt loops over the top of the binding so if one were to become worn or damaged it would be easy to change it without removing anything vital to the kilt. I did put them under the binding on my first kilts and then realised that was not sensible when I needed to move one when I lost some weight and the apron could not be pulled further round because a belt loop was in the way.

Anyone have comments or questions?

[pdcorlis]

Any chance this could be put into a .doc file and linked for download?