X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.
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19th August 06, 02:14 PM
#1
I think I have covered the basic construction.
I have assumed that the fabric has a good selvage so the lower edge does not require finishing.
If the fabric is 54 or 60 inches wide then you can make two 24 inch long kilts and still have enough fabric left from the strip in the middle to make the waist bindings and the belt loops.
I sew the belt loops over the top of the binding so if one were to become worn or damaged it would be easy to change it without removing anything vital to the kilt. I did put them under the binding on my first kilts and then realised that was not sensible when I needed to move one when I lost some weight and the apron could not be pulled further round because a belt loop was in the way.
Anyone have comments or questions?
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19th August 06, 04:05 PM
#2
Any chance this could be put into a .doc file and linked for download?
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19th August 06, 06:54 PM
#3
Thanks for the info. I've printed it out.
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20th August 06, 03:53 PM
#4
Correction
Apologies - can't read my own writing - the box pleat centre back is sewn at 13 inches from the central fold not 16.
I am just starting to fold the second kilt I can make from the length of fabric and realised that it did not match the first one.
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28th August 06, 01:51 PM
#5
I think I'll make one of these from United Nations Cold War Camo. It should look great with the green and white. Thanks for the instructions. O'Neille
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1st September 06, 02:04 AM
#6
I have made one of these from DPM, a three colour traditional type of disrupted pattern, but not military here in the UK, where military uniform camo is either two or four colours.
I wear it with a 'real' 1958 pattern belt with brass fittings, and one of several khaki tees or a dark cream shirt.
When constructing one of my kilts I usually sew everything by hand, but in order to get a slightly different waist I used the sewing machine to sew each individual fold HORIZONTALLY about two inches down from the upper edge, for about two inches along the pleat. This was to set the fold of the pleat at that point, so I could then sew the pleats in place at that level and then slightly flare the top - so making the narrowest point of the kilt within it, rather than at the top edge.
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